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Routes in (3) Phoenix

Carabid T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Drill 'Em and Fill 'Em S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fred On Air S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Hissing Llamas S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
JT's Route S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
License To Bolt S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Llamas on the Edge S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Phoenix S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
When Llamas Bolt S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 75 ft
FA: Brooke Sandahl & Jeff Ellington 4/87
Page Views: 2,149 total · 15/month
Shared By: Bryson Slothower on Mar 7, 2006
Admins: Micah Klesick, Nate Ball

You & This Route


59 Opinions

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Description

This vicious little route hits you with a low crux but stays on you till the anchor.
The rock is sharp but the moves excellent. It may be a bit easier for tall people.

Location

just left of Phoenix

Protection

draws

Photos

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phylp
Upland
 
phylp   Upland
 
Interesting to read all the comments about height. Like Barb, I'm on the shorter side at 5'4". Did this in the 90s with one fall which took me almost to the ground and brought my lighter partner up off the ground. Got it second time but had a desperate clip from pump at the top. "Tricky" is what I wrote in my book. At the time I thought it was 11c/d. Oct 21, 2017
This is fun to read - I did this route as my first 11 plus in the late 80’s when working routes was pretty new to the scene - ps I’m 5’2. I looked this up as my husband and I did a mountain bike all around the cliffs recently on our way to California ( live in Canmore, Alberta) and I was trying to pick out the route from 30 odd years ago. Oct 10, 2017
Franck Vee
  5.11d
Franck Vee  
  5.11d
Perhaps my finger tips are a little messed up already from other crimps at Smiths, but.... SHARP. Working out the crux a couple times was a most unpleasant experience!

That being said, nice moves. IMO this is a bit of a 1 sequence wonder - the crux is really hard. I would say that appart for the crux, the rest is probably 2-3 letter grades below (regardless of whether you call it 11b or 12a). I found it a little, but not much more, easier than the crux of Ring of Fire (11d). And Ring is much more sustained, it's not just about the crux. This one, once you can do the crux, it's an easy redpoint IMO.

Beta: for me the beta was to move feet into increasingly vanishingly small footholds, until I could lock-off the right on a crimp and deadpoint the pocket with the left. Then you still have not feet for the clip but at least you have a bomber pocket to clip with. Tricky, precise and very fun sequence (though painful). Jul 11, 2017
Kevin MP
Redmond, OR
  5.11c/d
Kevin MP   Redmond, OR
  5.11c/d
Definitely hard, especially with all the chalked up nothings around the second bolt; identifying the right holds was the crux(beta: use the right hand pinch with the dimple/pocket to make a big reach to the jug pocket). At 6'2" I was not maxed out but a little stretched making the move; there are higher options for feet but they aren't as good and I could see it being harder for shorter folks. The rest of the climb is awesome, great rock! Sep 10, 2016
MilesC
  5.11d
MilesC  
  5.11d
The reach is horrible and sandbagged, but afterwards this eases into a very fun bunch of 5.11 moves on excellent rock. Sep 8, 2015
another Chad
  5.11d
another Chad  
  5.11d
Interesting climb. The challenge of the crux drew me in. Reaching the two finger pocket is a full extension deadpoint for me (at 5'9" tall). And then what the hell do you do with your feet?! It took some experimenting and swearing. Thanks for the patient belays!

Hardest 5.11c I've ever done.

Chad Nov 2, 2014
great route,lots of fun movement. move down low is definitely the hardest move by far. would probably be rated 12a if it were in Colorado... Jun 22, 2012
cerickson
Portland, OR
 
cerickson   Portland, OR
 
I'm 6'2 and thought the low crux on this route was brutal. Very hard for 11b, the middle and upper parts of the route are awesome! Aug 30, 2010
Monomaniac
Morrison, CO
Monomaniac   Morrison, CO  
Welcome to Smith! Its not you, this just happens to be one of the classic Smith sandbags. Not a good choice for a warm day. Jul 27, 2009
Caleb Phillips
Boulder, CO
Caleb Phillips   Boulder, CO
Hardest 11 I've ever been on. In terms of other 11b climbs, it's way harder than Cool Ranch Flavor (on Morning Glory), and is harder than Embryonic (rated 11d, on Student Wall). Maybe I am too short (I'm 5'10") or was just stupid, but the lower crux felt solid 11d or harder to me. Jul 26, 2009
Ian G.
PDX, OR
  5.11b/c
Ian G.   PDX, OR
  5.11b/c
I thought this route was very difficult for .11b (compared to say vomit launch). Got shut down by the lower crux. The climbing on the upper part of the route is great and on some unique stone. Apr 25, 2009
Ben2
Bend, OR
 
Ben2   Bend, OR
 
I'm 5'4" or so and just got back on the route today. Though I didn't redpoint it, the moves seemed easier than before, and not quite so "reachy". Thought I'd post this in case any other shorties out there were getting nervous! Jun 15, 2008
I am 5'6" tall and climb 5.11 regularly and I couldn't do the move so I would agree that it might be easier if you are tall. It could be a long humbling week if height is not a valid excuse. Jun 9, 2008
C Miller
CA
  5.11b
C Miller   CA  
  5.11b
A good climb that was originally known as "JBGHSL" when done as a TR. The name stems back to the friction between the old Tradionalists and the "new wave" Tricksters; if you don't know what the acronym stands for ask around and I'm sure you'll find out. Mar 7, 2006