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Routes in (3) Phoenix

Carabid T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Drill 'Em and Fill 'Em S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fred On Air S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Hissing Llamas S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
JT's Route S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
License To Bolt S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Phoenix S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
When Llamas Bolt S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: Chet Sutterlin, Bob Bury, 1977
Page Views: 244 total, 2/month
Shared By: JohnK on Apr 22, 2008
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Description

If not for difficult to place protection and runout sections Carabid would make an excellent first gear lead. From the standard start climb a crack system up about 100 feet and then use a hand traverse right to reconnect to the crack system. Continue up a few feet and then traverse left about 20 feet to a set of bolt anchors. A 50-meter rope will reach the anchors for Drill 'em and Fill 'em or Phoenix. A second rap reaches the ground. A 60-meter rope will reach the standard start then down climb to gully to the ground.

Location

Start 20 feet right and 20 feet above the base of Drill 'em and Fill 'em by scrambling up the obvious gully to the standard start - a level spot below a discontinuous crack system. An optional start begins 20 feet to the right of Drill 'em and Fill 'em and below the standard start at a obvious crack system. The optional start adds about 20 feet to this already fairly long one-pitch route.

Protection

Gear to 2.5 inches but mostly small to medium nuts and cams plus standard-length runners.

Photos

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Andrew Leaf
Portland, OR
Andrew Leaf   Portland, OR
Not sure this needs a PG-13 rating either. I led this as a beginner where I was still sewing things up and 5.6 was the hardest I was climbing. My pieces were 10-15 feet apart, which didn't feel all that sketchy because of the large ledges to stop and place gear. Gear at my feet, ledge another 6 feet away, just push up to ledge before placing more.

The uneven rock takes tricams well. Aug 23, 2017
Andrew Child
Santa Clara
 
Andrew Child   Santa Clara
 
I don't really think that this route needs a pg13 rating. The climbing is very easy and the protection felt solid. There are a few short sections of bad rock, but nothing more than 10 feet or so.

You could probably rap straight back to the belay ledge with a single 70m rope. Oct 3, 2016
another Chad
  5.6 PG13
another Chad  
  5.6 PG13
Carabid starts roughly thirty feet to the right of Drill 'em and Fill 'em and follows a lumpy crack system that angles left. Climb twenty feet to a brushy ledge and then another one-hundred twenty feet to the top of the climb. There's a black sling and a ring around a small pinnacle which can be used as an anchor. A three-bolt anchor is located left and down from the sling anchor which is in a less convenient location but is less nerve racking.

Bring your partner up. Cleaning this line on rappel totally sucks (which I had the misfortune of doing in a rainstorm). A single rope rappel will get you to the anchors atop Drill 'em and Fill 'em. One more rappel will get you back to the ground.

Carabid isn't particularly hard to protect. It's so slabby though that falling would almost always be hazardous. A standard rack of singles up to 3" worked well. Having a set of hexes or an extra set of large nuts would be helpful. Putting runners on just about every piece will mitigate the rope drag.

Be vigilant about loose rocks as anything knocked off near the top will bomb the people on the right half of the Phoenix Buttress (which is almost always busy). It's not a chossy climb but you'll run into some loose rock. Lastly, make sure your belayer is wearing a helmet.


Chad Oct 28, 2013