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Routes in (3) Phoenix

Carabid T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Drill 'Em and Fill 'Em S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fred On Air S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Hissing Llamas S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
JT's Route S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
License To Bolt S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Llamas on the Edge S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Phoenix S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
When Llamas Bolt S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
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Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Rick Lince, 1987
Page Views: 2,197 total · 14/month
Shared By: David Tvedt on Apr 4, 2006
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Description

A tricky crux past a bulge down low can be bypassed by cheating left to the arete. The best part of the route is above this in the steep, beautiful finishing slab, finessing moves between small pockets.

Location

Just left of License To Bolt (which has ring bolts) and right of the shallow dihedral.

Protection

Bolts with top rap anchors.

Photos

James Traub
  5.10c R
James Traub  
  5.10c R
This is a great climb! I have yet to do License to Bolt, but I have done the rest of the climbs on the Phoenix and this is definitely my favorite. The moves flow well and don't feel contrived. Only possible downside is that the route feels a tad runout, especially towards the top. Nov 15, 2006
1Eric Rhicard
Tucson
 
1Eric Rhicard   Tucson
 
I liked this climb too. Didn't feel like I was cheating by moving left down low. The select guide says the bottom moves wander a bit so I followed the holds. The route to the right has glue ins. Also really liked the upper face. Jun 9, 2008
donggua
Corvallis, Oregon
donggua   Corvallis, Oregon
great route. the crux is way more fun go straight up
although seems way harder than cheating left and using the juggy pockets there, once you are committed to the smaller holds, its not that hard Jun 19, 2013
Bryan Hall
Portland, Oregon
 
Bryan Hall   Portland, Oregon
 
Great route on solid rock. Fun crux and then enjoyable climbing afterwards! Jul 25, 2013
BBQ
  5.10d
BBQ  
  5.10d
The best 5.10+ onsight I have had the pleasure of bagging at Smith Rock. Can't say enough good things about it. Get on it! Jul 8, 2015

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