Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Mike Puddy, Alan Watts, 1987
Page Views: 1,663 total · 11/month
Shared By: David Tvedt on Apr 4, 2006
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route

96 Opinions

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A little climbed route considering how busy Phoenix Buttress can be. Frustrating climbing figuring out what is the intended line versus whats there decreases enjoyment for many. Choose your own line in about a 4 foot swath on either side of the bolt line for part of the route. You can avoid the apparent intended crux by staying left at the 2nd bolt.


Just right of Phoenix, on the right side of the formation.


Bolts. Optional Cam before the first bolt.


Hansen Wendlandt
Hansen Wendlandt  
Come on... 5 bolts in 80 feet, and the first 4 are the first 45 feet, and the 5th is just hiding up where you can't see, in the 5.8 cheese grating territory. This is an enjoyable enough climb, but could easily get in someone's head, especially as their morning's warmup. Oct 22, 2014
I've been up this a few times and there's no denying the top is rather a bit runout. Last time up I did a roughly bodylengths-per-bolt guesstimate and concluded that the anchor and the last 2 bolts are each about 16' above the previous clip.

My irrational fear on this route is that the process of heaving myself around on the big starting flake will somehow tip it over... Jul 4, 2015
Trevor Vichas
South Lake Tahoe, CA
Trevor Vichas   South Lake Tahoe, CA
Great warm up route. a bit run out at the top, but it's not JTree run out style. May 14, 2016
Kyle Terry
Portland, OR
Kyle Terry   Portland, OR
I'm not entirely sure why this route is bolted this way, but it really could've been a great 10a to get your feet wet on. Nov 7, 2016
Sam Singer
Bend, OR
Sam Singer   Bend, OR
I don't know why people don't like this route, I found the sequence to be pretty straight forward and the rock to be bomber. The top is pretty run out but is no harder than 5.6 or 5.7. Honestly I might have enjoyed it more than Phoenix Oct 14, 2018