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Routes in (3) Phoenix

Carabid T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Drill 'Em and Fill 'Em S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fred On Air S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Hissing Llamas S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
JT's Route S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
License To Bolt S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Llamas on the Edge S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Phoenix S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
When Llamas Bolt S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Mike Puddy, Alan Watts, 1987
Page Views: 1,459 total · 10/month
Shared By: David Tvedt on Apr 4, 2006
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

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79 Opinions

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Description

A little climbed route considering how busy Phoenix Buttress can be. Frustrating climbing figuring out what is the intended line versus whats there decreases enjoyment for many. Choose your own line in about a 4 foot swath on either side of the bolt line for part of the route. You can avoid the apparent intended crux by staying left at the 2nd bolt.

Location

Just right of Phoenix, on the right side of the formation.

Protection

Bolts. Optional Cam before the first bolt.

Photos

Hansen Wendlandt
  5.10a
Hansen Wendlandt  
  5.10a
Come on... 5 bolts in 80 feet, and the first 4 are the first 45 feet, and the 5th is just hiding up where you can't see, in the 5.8 cheese grating territory. This is an enjoyable enough climb, but could easily get in someone's head, especially as their morning's warmup. Oct 22, 2014
I've been up this a few times and there's no denying the top is rather a bit runout. Last time up I did a roughly bodylengths-per-bolt guesstimate and concluded that the anchor and the last 2 bolts are each about 16' above the previous clip.

My irrational fear on this route is that the process of heaving myself around on the big starting flake will somehow tip it over... Jul 4, 2015
Trevor Vichas
Strawberry, CA
 
Trevor Vichas   Strawberry, CA
 
Great warm up route. a bit run out at the top, but it's not JTree run out style. May 14, 2016
Kyle Terry  
 
I'm not entirely sure why this route is bolted this way, but it really could've been a great 10a to get your feet wet on. Nov 7, 2016

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