Type: Sport, 75 ft
FA: (TR) Bob Cable & Julia Cronk, 1988, FL: Dave Evans and Chris Miller, June 1997
Page Views: 5,252 total · 34/month
Shared By: C Miller on Mar 12, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


180 Opinions

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Description

Climb broken but easy rock to a bolt about 20' up (optional gear to 2.5" available), clip it, and then get stood up to confront the crux just past the second bolt - thin edges along a vertical seam. Once past the crux the holds get progressively larger and more incut as the bolts get spaced further apart. After clipping the last bolt head straight up to chain anchors atop the highest portion of the wall.

Well protected, with engaging moves on suberb rock which make this an often done climb on this popular wall; this would be the next logical step after leading the nearby Bye Crackie and Coyotes at Sunset.

Location

Protection

6 bolts, bolted anchor/rap
Bill Olszewski
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.10a
Bill Olszewski   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.10a
Awesome climb! Delicate moves on small crimpers, quite vertical. Mar 10, 2007
RockyR
Encinitas, CA
 
RockyR   Encinitas, CA
 
Followed on this route! When you have bomber hand holds, no foot holds. Then when you have bomber foot holds, no hand holds. The 2nd bolt to the 3rd bolt is run out. Well at least for me, as I am only 5'2". I thought I was going to lead this climb. Not ready for it yet! I will have to work on my sequence. Definitely a fun, exciting, balancy route. ~~ROCKY~~ Jul 16, 2011
Indira Lower
  5.9+
Indira Lower  
  5.9+
This whole wall is great for those getting their feet wet on leading ratings higer than 5.8. I loved this climb and this wall, very well protected. Jul 20, 2011
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
  5.10a
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
  5.10a
While it does seem like a next logical step to doing the 5.8 and 5.7 to the right be warned, the holds are significantly smaller, and may surprise you.

A very fine face climb, with lovely holds and moves. Mar 31, 2014
Ian McG
  5.9
Ian McG  
  5.9
While this certainly goes at 5.9, it feels like a significantly greater challenge than the easier route's to climber's right, largely due to smaller holds and smoother stone. Jun 11, 2014
Road
Stanton
  5.8+
Road   Stanton
  5.8+
really great climb. felt a little easier than 5.9, but it might be because i'm 6'3".

The first bolt is a bit higher than I would like, but we have a stick clip so it wasn't an issue. We just climbed up and around the right, walked across the ledge under coyotes at sunset, and stick clipped. Even without a stick clip don't be turned away. It was prob 5.4-5.5 to the first bolt.

If you felt sunset was fun and not too hard, I would definitely recommend going for this one. Jul 10, 2015
MariaZ
 
MariaZ  
 
I agree that there are a few height dependent moves around the third bolt. Oct 3, 2017
Crag Hag  
 
(For reference I'm 5'5")

The 1st bolt was a bit higher up than I would have liked, but it really wasn't a big deal. Definitely was more vertical than I realized - which wasn't a bad thing.

The grade felt pretty consistent for the area. Sep 25, 2018