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Routes in Coyote Crag

Black Magic Poodle S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bye Crackie S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Coyotes at Sunset S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Eight Second Ride S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Es Muy Bueno T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Golden Poodle S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Golden Spike S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
High Noon S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hootenanny T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pass the Bucket T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Red Brewster T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Saddle Tramp TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Western Farm Service T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Chris Miller and Chuck Scott, May 2001
Page Views: 2,006 total, 14/month
Shared By: C Miller on Mar 19, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Climb a lower face past three bolts to gain a small stance below a bulge at the 4th bolt. Power over the bulge on somewhat hidden, but incut sidepulls and edges that get larger the higher you go. Above the bulge the angle turns to steep slab and the bolts become more spaced with a slight runout to the anchors.

Fun moves over the bulge but not as high quality as some of the surrounding routes - still worth a spin.

Location

The bolted line between Golden Spike and Golden Poodle.

Protection

7 bolts, 2 bolt anchor/rap

Photos

csass
 
csass  
 
This was a solid climb for sure. Rated 10a in Southern California Sport Climbing. A few pretty hard moves, but a super fun one. Took some hard looking to find some of the holds, but everything you need is there. Great onsight for me. Jul 7, 2014
Ben Lin
Anaheim, CA
 
Ben Lin   Anaheim, CA
 
Crux is indeed after 3rd bolt. Use the top of the two finger edge features on the bulge for the left hand and the far right edge (about 3 feet to the right) then step up with the left foot on the lower flake and pulled up hard and step high with the right foot on the small ledge. You'll end up a bit side ways leaning left, but it will allow you to be able to bump up to the C shaped edge and finally the small rail to match. Pull hard and you're home free. Rest of the climb after bolt 4 isn't too bad.

It's a fun climb, did it twice in a 30 minute window (first time was sloppy and brute force ugly, second time was a little more smooth, but still ugly). May 26, 2014
Will S
Joshua Tree
Will S   Joshua Tree
I think I climbed this line...but with the squeeze jobs/variations on this wall I have no idea what route I actually climbed (not an uncommon case when relying on "topos" in Troy's guide). Maybe it was an accidental link up of the bottom of this and top of Golden Spike? Fun, if a bit confusing. Jun 2, 2008
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
  5.10b
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
  5.10b
Ok route as "Golden Poodle" to the right will likely have a pile of people for a top rope session.

The line was difficult to follow as the lone bolt for "hootenanny" draws you over there just as you realize you should go left.

Nice enough moves and Chis is right that it's worth a spin if you're there anyways. A better guidebook could avoid any confusion on the routes on that wall.

....waiting.... Jun 1, 2008