Type: Trad, 35 ft
FA: Rick Shull and Jim Hammerle, 1989
Page Views: 1,365 total · 9/month
Shared By: Rick Shull on Oct 17, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


24 Opinions

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Description

Fun, easily protected crack right of Es Muy Bueno. This climb ends at the large block wedged on the ledge.

Location

Obvious crack right of Es Muy Bueno.

Protection

Larger nuts and medium cams.

Photos

Chris D
the couch
 
Chris D   the couch
 
vimeo.com/14598987

Me and Ben on Western Farm Service Sep 1, 2010
Bill Olszewski
Colorado Springs, CO
Bill Olszewski   Colorado Springs, CO
Sweet video! And by some random act of fate, that's my friend Taylor belaying for Bye Crackie, and then climbing as I belay. ha ha Oct 10, 2010
Simon H
Oakland, CA
 
Simon H   Oakland, CA
 
Short, insecure, and a death block up top that wants to eat your rope. If you're looking for a trad climb in the area with a similar grade, Psychedelic Sluice is WAY more fun. Apr 26, 2011
Tristan Burnham
La Crescenta, CA
 
Tristan Burnham   La Crescenta, CA
 
This route is pretty lame. It's like face climbing with a crack for protection. The crack is pretty shallow so cams are ok in it but there are lots of spots for nuts. Jul 18, 2011
Chris D
the couch
 
Chris D   the couch
 
"This route is pretty lame. It's like face climbing with a crack for protection."

Right, sort of like that other lame climb, "The Line" at Lovers Leap.

This isn't The Line, but I'm just saying, that's no criteria by which to be dismissive of a route's quality. It's a short, tricky, decent route.

I don't know about the "death block." It would take more force than a single climber could provide to dislodge it. Oct 16, 2011
Colin Schour
Big Bear Lake, CA
 
Colin Schour   Big Bear Lake, CA
 
Not a big fan. The climb lends itself more towards face climbing than it does working the crack. Apr 30, 2012