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Routes in Coyote Crag

Black Magic Poodle S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bye Crackie S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Coyotes at Sunset S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Eight Second Ride S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Es Muy Bueno T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Golden Poodle S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Golden Spike S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
High Noon S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hootenanny T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pass the Bucket T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Red Brewster T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Saddle Tramp TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Western Farm Service T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: (TR) Bob Cable & Julia Cronk, 1988, FL: Kevin Duck, 1994
Page Views: 9,063 total, 64/month
Shared By: C Miller on Mar 12, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This route, like it's neighbor to the right, is a local classic and a highly recommended route for the grade that provides fun climbing on mostly large holds up a vertical wall.

Start down and left from Bye Crackie and just right of Golden Poodle and climb broken rock to a bolt 20' up (optional gear to 2.5" available). From here the wall steepens and well-protected climbing on mostly incut patina plates and edges leads to anchors on a sloping ledge.

Location

This is the second bolted route from the left and is just left of Bye Crackie.

Protection

6 bolts, 2 bolt sport anchor
Buddy Nielsen
Flagstaff, AZ
 
Buddy Nielsen   Flagstaff, AZ
 
Whoa, this was so much fun! Sep 15, 2016
Alex Fletcher
Anaheim, CA
  5.9-
Alex Fletcher   Anaheim, CA
  5.9-
I'll be the first to admit, while this climb isn't that difficult, I got stuck about 45' up for about ten minutes standing three feet above my last bolt and three feet below my next bolt contemplating the lesser evil of trusting some really small stuff on my left side or some really awkward stuff on my right. Eventually onsighted it still, even after cramping from holding the same thing for so long. The fall would have been clean as this face is nearly perfectly vertical. As with the route to the right, the views from the top are unbelievable. A must see for anyone in the area. Jul 5, 2016
Road
Stanton
  5.8
Road   Stanton
  5.8
a must if you are in the area.

Solid holds, great rock, well protected.

Make sure to take in the view once you gain the top. Jul 10, 2015
Ian McG
  5.7
Ian McG  
  5.7
A fun little romp; doesn't really feel any harder than it's neighbor, bye crackie. Jun 11, 2014
karl schmidt
Idyllwild, CA
 
karl schmidt   Idyllwild, CA
 
I literally did the climb at sunset. Other than the fact that the temp dropped quickly due to it being almost east facing so it made the climb a little more difficult with stiff fingers.. but a fun climb and rated perfectly Oct 20, 2013
RockyR
Encinitas, CA
 
RockyR   Encinitas, CA
 
Excellent route! Great lead climb!! I think when I was on the 3rd bolt, I had a section that I had a bit of a hard time. Once I figured out my sequence, it was AWESOME!! LOVED IT! ~~ROCKY~~ Jul 16, 2011
Chris D, love the vids, this one looked a bunch of fire ants climbing into the nest! Sep 1, 2010
Chris D
the couch
Chris D   the couch
vimeo.com/14599063 Sep 1, 2010
Carl A
brooklyn, ny
 
Carl A   brooklyn, ny
 
Killer climb, really great variety of moves and not boring for 5.8. Nov 5, 2008
Bill Olszewski
Colorado Springs, CO
 
Bill Olszewski   Colorado Springs, CO
 
Coyotes is awesome. It is a great warm-up climb as well as a perfect route for those leading at the grade. This one is almost dead vertical but the holds are bomb and the moves very well-protected. A true Holcomb classic. Jun 16, 2007