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Golden Poodle
5.9+,
Sport, 75 ft (23 m),
Avg: 2.7 from 250
votes
FA: (TR) Bob Cable & Julia Cronk, 1988, FL: Dave Evans and Chris Miller, June 1997
California
> San Bernardino…
> Big Bear Lake Area
> Big Bear North
> Big Bear City Area
> Holcomb Valley…
> Central Pinnacles
> Coyote Crag
Description
Climb broken but easy rock to a bolt about 20' up (optional gear to 2.5" available), clip it, and then get stood up to confront the crux just past the second bolt - thin edges along a vertical seam. Once past the crux the holds get progressively larger and more incut as the bolts get spaced further apart. After clipping the last bolt head straight up to chain anchors atop the highest portion of the wall.
Well protected, with engaging moves on suberb rock which make this an often done climb on this popular wall; this would be the next logical step after leading the nearby Bye Crackie and Coyotes at Sunset.
[Hide Comment] Followed on this route! When you have bomber hand holds, no foot holds. Then when you have bomber foot holds, no hand holds. The 2nd bolt to the 3rd bolt is run out. Well at least for me, as I am only 5'2". I thought I was going to lead this climb. Not ready for it yet! I will have to work on my sequence. Definitely a fun, exciting, balancy route. ~~ROCKY~~
Jul 16, 2011
[Hide Comment] This whole wall is great for those getting their feet wet on leading ratings higer than 5.8. I loved this climb and this wall, very well protected.
Jul 20, 2011
[Hide Comment] While it does seem like a next logical step to doing the 5.8 and 5.7 to the right be warned, the holds are significantly smaller, and may surprise you.
A very fine face climb, with lovely holds and moves.
Mar 31, 2014
[Hide Comment] While this certainly goes at 5.9, it feels like a significantly greater challenge than the easier route's to climber's right, largely due to smaller holds and smoother stone.
Jun 11, 2014
[Hide Comment] really great climb. felt a little easier than 5.9, but it might be because i'm 6'3".
The first bolt is a bit higher than I would like, but we have a stick clip so it wasn't an issue. We just climbed up and around the right, walked across the ledge under coyotes at sunset, and stick clipped. Even without a stick clip don't be turned away. It was prob 5.4-5.5 to the first bolt.
If you felt sunset was fun and not too hard, I would definitely recommend going for this one.
Jul 10, 2015
The 1st bolt was a bit higher up than I would have liked, but it really wasn't a big deal. Definitely was more vertical than I realized - which wasn't a bad thing.
The grade felt pretty consistent for the area.
Sep 25, 2018
Colorado Springs, CO
Encinitas, CA
Big Bear Lake
A very fine face climb, with lovely holds and moves. Mar 31, 2014
Stanton
The first bolt is a bit higher than I would like, but we have a stick clip so it wasn't an issue. We just climbed up and around the right, walked across the ledge under coyotes at sunset, and stick clipped. Even without a stick clip don't be turned away. It was prob 5.4-5.5 to the first bolt.
If you felt sunset was fun and not too hard, I would definitely recommend going for this one. Jul 10, 2015
San Diego, CA
The 1st bolt was a bit higher up than I would have liked, but it really wasn't a big deal. Definitely was more vertical than I realized - which wasn't a bad thing.
The grade felt pretty consistent for the area. Sep 25, 2018
California