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Golden Poodle

5.9+, Sport, 75 ft (23 m),  Avg: 2.7 from 250 votes
FA: (TR) Bob Cable & Julia Cronk, 1988, FL: Dave Evans and Chris Miller, June 1997
California > San Bernardino… > Big Bear Lake Area > Big Bear North > Big Bear City Area > Holcomb Valley… > Central Pinnacles > Coyote Crag

Description

Climb broken but easy rock to a bolt about 20' up (optional gear to 2.5" available), clip it, and then get stood up to confront the crux just past the second bolt - thin edges along a vertical seam. Once past the crux the holds get progressively larger and more incut as the bolts get spaced further apart. After clipping the last bolt head straight up to chain anchors atop the highest portion of the wall.

Well protected, with engaging moves on suberb rock which make this an often done climb on this popular wall; this would be the next logical step after leading the nearby Bye Crackie and Coyotes at Sunset.

Location

Protection

6 bolts, bolted anchor/rap
(all bolts 1/2" SS)

* Bolts replaced 2019

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Bolt Locations
[Hide Photo] Bolt Locations
Bolt Locations
[Hide Photo] Bolt Locations
Golden Poodle (5.9), Holcomb Valley Pinnacles
[Hide Photo] Golden Poodle (5.9), Holcomb Valley Pinnacles
Coral on Golden Poodle
[Hide Photo] Coral on Golden Poodle
Albert Ramirez clipping bolt #4 with Agina far below on belay.
[Hide Photo] Albert Ramirez clipping bolt #4 with Agina far below on belay.
Golden Poodle (5.9), Holcomb Valley Pinnacles
[Hide Photo] Golden Poodle (5.9), Holcomb Valley Pinnacles
Dallas Augustine leading Golden Poodle just before sunset.
[Hide Photo] Dallas Augustine leading Golden Poodle just before sunset.
Tomoko on Golden Poodle
[Hide Photo] Tomoko on Golden Poodle
Corrina Gibson on a cold March morning.
[Hide Photo] Corrina Gibson on a cold March morning.
Kat Tarculas on Golden Poodle
[Hide Photo] Kat Tarculas on Golden Poodle
Rob Allas on Golden Poodle
[Hide Photo] Rob Allas on Golden Poodle
Corrina high stepping on a cold winter's day.
[Hide Photo] Corrina high stepping on a cold winter's day.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Bill Olszewski
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] Awesome climb! Delicate moves on small crimpers, quite vertical. Mar 10, 2007
RockyR
Encinitas, CA
 
[Hide Comment] Followed on this route! When you have bomber hand holds, no foot holds. Then when you have bomber foot holds, no hand holds. The 2nd bolt to the 3rd bolt is run out. Well at least for me, as I am only 5'2". I thought I was going to lead this climb. Not ready for it yet! I will have to work on my sequence. Definitely a fun, exciting, balancy route. ~~ROCKY~~ Jul 16, 2011
Indira Lower
  5.9+
[Hide Comment] This whole wall is great for those getting their feet wet on leading ratings higer than 5.8. I loved this climb and this wall, very well protected. Jul 20, 2011
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] While it does seem like a next logical step to doing the 5.8 and 5.7 to the right be warned, the holds are significantly smaller, and may surprise you.

A very fine face climb, with lovely holds and moves. Mar 31, 2014
Ian McG
  5.9
[Hide Comment] While this certainly goes at 5.9, it feels like a significantly greater challenge than the easier route's to climber's right, largely due to smaller holds and smoother stone. Jun 11, 2014
Road
Stanton
  5.8+
[Hide Comment] really great climb. felt a little easier than 5.9, but it might be because i'm 6'3".

The first bolt is a bit higher than I would like, but we have a stick clip so it wasn't an issue. We just climbed up and around the right, walked across the ledge under coyotes at sunset, and stick clipped. Even without a stick clip don't be turned away. It was prob 5.4-5.5 to the first bolt.

If you felt sunset was fun and not too hard, I would definitely recommend going for this one. Jul 10, 2015
MariaZ Zimmerman
San Diego, CA
 
[Hide Comment] I agree that there are a few height dependent moves around the third bolt. Oct 3, 2017
[Hide Comment] (For reference I'm 5'5")

The 1st bolt was a bit higher up than I would have liked, but it really wasn't a big deal. Definitely was more vertical than I realized - which wasn't a bad thing.

The grade felt pretty consistent for the area. Sep 25, 2018
River P
California
 
[Hide Comment] New bolts! Thanks to Joe&company! Jun 26, 2019