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Routes in Coyote Crag

Black Magic Poodle S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bye Crackie S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Coyotes at Sunset S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Eight Second Ride S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Es Muy Bueno T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Golden Poodle S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Golden Spike S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
High Noon S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hootenanny T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pass the Bucket T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Red Brewster T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Saddle Tramp TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Western Farm Service T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Chris Miller and Loren Scott, June 1997
Page Views: 4,738 total, 33/month
Shared By: C Miller on Mar 12, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


110 Opinions

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Description

Begin this route by climbing a wedged log until possible to grab some holds and pull onto the rock. Once on the rock climb up to a bulge which can be pulled directly or slightly to the left (easier). Higher, interesting face climbing on good holds leads to a steep finish with amazingly good holds. The route ends at a bolted anchor just where the angle starts to kicks back.

Lots of fun climbing on this with a few tricky moves down low and a slightly pumpy finish on incut holds.

Location

This is the left-most climb on the crag, is located just left of the route Golden Spike and easily indentified by the log wedged against the face.

Protection

8 bolts, bolted anchor/rap
Buddy Nielsen
Flagstaff, AZ
 
Buddy Nielsen   Flagstaff, AZ
 
The hanger on the 5th bolt is a little loose. The bolt itself seemed solid and intact.

Super fun climb! The crux for me was throwing to the sloper jug above the 6th bolt and not pumping out from there. Sep 17, 2016
Road
Stanton
  5.10a
Road   Stanton
  5.10a
Started in the crack to the left of the first bolt. Stemmed till I was level with the first bolt then pulled over left to clip. Got stuck at the second bolt for a bit, but its a semi-decent ledge so I had plenty of time to look around. Ended up working to the right of the bump, gaining the top of it, then using that to work back left. Not sure if that's off route. But going straight up or left without gaining the lip felt too hard for the grade. After that the climbing was great. Not as good "coyotes at sunset" right next to it, but still a great climb. Jul 10, 2015
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
  5.9
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
  5.9
Last time I did it I stemmed also. May 21, 2015
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
  5.10
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
  5.10
It's been a few years since I've been on this route and the log is now gone. I honestly don't recall the sequence using (or not using) the log before but found the opening moves to be amazingly awkward today. So much so I came back down and started again. I tried direct but didn't want to creep over right to the neighboring route. Ultimately, I ended up steaming to the wall on the left, I'm certain that's not the way to do it, but once I got going that's what seemed most natural.

I'd be curious to see how others view the opening moves. Don't think it changes the rating but stumped me for sure. Aug 3, 2013
Jeff Scofield
Yorba Linda, CA
 
Jeff Scofield   Yorba Linda, CA
 
I'm a big fan of bolts to prevent a ground fall but the log is so low off the ground it wouldn't do anything. A fall would still be to the ground... May 14, 2012
Rick Shull
Arcata, CA & Dyer,NV
  5.9
Rick Shull   Arcata, CA & Dyer,NV  
  5.9
There was once a bolt on the log. It must have been chopped. Jun 17, 2007
Bill Olszewski
Colorado Springs, CO
 
Bill Olszewski   Colorado Springs, CO
 
Definitely a fun route. The opening slab moves (of the tree trunk) are quite slick; I think we need to knock an old piton into the wood. One o' these days the trunk will rot away and the climb will get a lot harder. ;-) Jun 16, 2007
Adam Stackhouse    
  5.9
Fun, steep, positive and highly recommended. Crux maybe exiting the first bolt, but a pump crux awaits those who take the grade for granted. Make extra sure to watch out for the wild poodles that have wandered in from JTree to the base of this climb, along with the unprotected tree trunk moves before the first clip. Mar 19, 2007