Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Coyote Crag

Black Magic Poodle S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bye Crackie S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Coyotes at Sunset S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Eight Second Ride S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Es Muy Bueno T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Golden Poodle S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Golden Spike S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
High Noon S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hootenanny T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pass the Bucket T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Red Brewster T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Saddle Tramp TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Western Farm Service T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: (TR) Chris Miller & Tim Fearn 1990, FL: Chris Miller & Dave Evans, June 1997
Page Views: 1,743 total, 12/month
Shared By: C Miller on Mar 19, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


63 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Boulder up into a thin crack and pull a small overlap before getting established below a prominent bulge. Over the bulge via some comitting and strenuous moves to gain a jug and then continue up and left on somewhat scrappy rock to the anchors.

Decent moves on this one but the rock quality is not on par with most climbs on this wall. The line tends to wander some as well which detracts somewhat from the overall quality.

Location

Just right of Black Magic Poodle at a thin crack.

Protection

7 bolts, chain anchors
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
  5.10c
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
  5.10c
I'd give it 5.10c. The crux is quite powerful, and often rejects on-sights. Mar 31, 2014
johnnydanger
California
  5.10c
johnnydanger   California
  5.10c
A great climb with a thin start, solid crux, and continuous steep climbing to finish it off! I agree with Bill and would say if High Noon is 10b than Golden spike should be 10c. Hard 10b or soft 10c, it's still one not to miss. Sep 25, 2013
Tyler Logan
Mammoth Lakes, CA
Tyler Logan   Mammoth Lakes, CA
Rock quality seems to be improving every year with traffic. I actually prefer this route to High Noon due to its more continuous nature, although the crux sequence isn't quite as interesting. I think the grade of 10b is accurate, although it might seem stiff compared with some other routes in the area that have ratings on the soft side. Mar 27, 2008
Bill Olszewski
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.10c
Bill Olszewski   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.10c
This is a great route but I feel it's harder than the rating given here. The crux is indeed very comitting and strenuous but it doesn't let up much thereafter. Mar 10, 2007