Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: (TR) Chris Miller & Tim Fearn 1990, FL: Chris Miller & Dave Evans, June 1997
Page Views: 1,958 total · 13/month
Shared By: C Miller on Mar 19, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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69 Opinions

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Description

Boulder up into a thin crack and pull a small overlap before getting established below a prominent bulge. Over the bulge via some comitting and strenuous moves to gain a jug and then continue up and left on somewhat scrappy rock to the anchors.

Decent moves on this one but the rock quality is not on par with most climbs on this wall. The line tends to wander some as well which detracts somewhat from the overall quality.

Location

Just right of Black Magic Poodle at a thin crack.

Protection

7 bolts, chain anchors

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Bolt Locations
Bolt Locations
 10
Working my way up the bulge.
Working my way up the bulge.
 0
Golden Spike (5.10b), Holcomb Valley Pinnacles
Golden Spike (5.10b), Holcomb Valley Pinnacles
 0
Start of `Golden Spike` at `Coyote Crag` Holcomb Valley .... Based this experience, I would call it 5.10b X
Start of `Golden Spike` at `Coyote Crag` Holcom…
 0
Jamieson Stuart on Golden Spike
Jamieson Stuart on Golden Spike
 0
Golden Spike topo
Golden Spike topo
 0

4 Comments

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Bill Olszewski
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.10c
Bill Olszewski   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.10c
This is a great route but I feel it's harder than the rating given here. The crux is indeed very comitting and strenuous but it doesn't let up much thereafter. Mar 10, 2007
Tyler Logan
Mammoth Lakes, CA
Tyler Logan   Mammoth Lakes, CA
Rock quality seems to be improving every year with traffic. I actually prefer this route to High Noon due to its more continuous nature, although the crux sequence isn't quite as interesting. I think the grade of 10b is accurate, although it might seem stiff compared with some other routes in the area that have ratings on the soft side. Mar 27, 2008
johnnydanger
California
  5.10c
johnnydanger   California
  5.10c
A great climb with a thin start, solid crux, and continuous steep climbing to finish it off! I agree with Bill and would say if High Noon is 10b than Golden spike should be 10c. Hard 10b or soft 10c, it's still one not to miss. Sep 25, 2013
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
  5.10c
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
  5.10c
I'd give it 5.10c. The crux is quite powerful, and often rejects on-sights. Mar 31, 2014