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Routes in Coyote Crag

Black Magic Poodle S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bye Crackie S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Coyotes at Sunset S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Eight Second Ride S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Es Muy Bueno T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Golden Poodle S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Golden Spike S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
High Noon S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hootenanny T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pass the Bucket T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Red Brewster T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Saddle Tramp TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Western Farm Service T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Jim Hammerle and Rick Shull, 1989
Page Views: 10,350 total, 73/month
Shared By: C Miller on Mar 12, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

This high-quality route was one of the very first bolted routes at the Holcomb Valley Pinnacles, and to this day remains a popular classic.

Climb well-featured face to arete past six bolts utilizing the amazingly good holds that sprinkle this route. A classic and recommended route for the grade at this area.

The FA was orginally done with 2 bolts, a few pieces and some tie-offs for plates; years later the original bolts were replaced, more bolts placed and an anchor added so that 5.7 climbers might better enjoy the route.

Location

This is the right-most bolted climb on the crag and starts up and right from all of the other bolted climbs on this face.

Protection

6 bolts, 2 bolt sport anchor
Tony Milici
Los Angeles
  5.7
Tony Milici   Los Angeles
  5.7
Incredible jugs, probably the best sport route for its grade I've ever done. Sep 4, 2017
Ivan Bland
San Diego, CA
Ivan Bland   San Diego, CA
Great warm up route. When I was cleaning the anchor on Saturday morning I noticed the left nut was a bit loose. The actual bolt and hanger look bomber, just that I could tighten the nut by hand. Sep 4, 2017
Alex Fletcher
Anaheim, CA
  5.6
Alex Fletcher   Anaheim, CA
  5.6
Once at the anchors for this climb, don't forget to turn around and you'll be rewarded with some of the best unobstructed views that can be had in the area. Some of our group did their first outdoor leads on this one and also taught them their first rappels from the ledge at the top. They had a blast! Also, great photo op can be had by another person scrambling around the right which puts you level with the fourth bolt or so while the climber is on the arete. Jul 5, 2016
Road
Stanton
  5.7
Road   Stanton
  5.7
easy but still fun. great first lead. Jul 10, 2015
Rion Commerford
Forest Falls, CA
  5.7
Rion Commerford   Forest Falls, CA
  5.7
Excellent warm up route for Central Pinnacles. This one is a must-do! Nov 3, 2013
Some awesome exposure especially at that grade. Jul 30, 2013
Adam Stackhouse    
  5.6
Steep, airy, positive, and well protected. Easily the best of grade at Holcomb Valley. May 14, 2013
RockyR
Encinitas, CA
 
RockyR   Encinitas, CA
 
Been leading for a few months. First time on HVP. Was there July 11 thru 13th. Gorgeous weather! This route was my 2nd lead for the day. Very enjoyable. Loved transferring to the actual face of the route on the 3rd bolt(I think it was the 3rd bolt??). It was fun! Granted I got a little haired out moving onto the last bolt! HA! Overall well protected and nice route! ~~ROCKY~~ Jul 16, 2011
Chris D
the couch
Chris D   the couch
vimeo.com/14601725

Bye Crackie Sep 1, 2010
Bill Olszewski
Colorado Springs, CO
 
Bill Olszewski   Colorado Springs, CO
 
A great moderate and as a result, probably the most popular in the Pinnacles. Be patient - there's plenty of great routes in the area and you'll eventually find this one open. Kudos to the retro bolters for giving Bye Crackie it's own anchor as Coyotes is perhaps the second most popular route. Jun 16, 2007