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Routes in Upper Gibraltar

A Route Runs Through It S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Crescent Direct, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crescent, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dazed and Confused S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Gibbon, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Slacker T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Soul, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Triple Overhang T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Mike Brown & Jeff Buhl, 1992
Page Views: 1,301 total, 9/month
Shared By: M. Morley on Feb 5, 2006
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Same start as The Soul. At the horizontal break, cut right and up past bolts (avoiding the 11b crux of The Soul). Well-protected face climbing leads to a 2-bolt anchor shared with The Soul.

Protection

Bolts.
The big juggy hold that allows you to clip the aforementioned bolt is ready to give way, be warned. I could hear it creaking and cracking as I pulled down on it. Additional gear is recommended before the questionable clip Jan 23, 2011
Jeff Mahoney
Santa Barbara, CA
 
Jeff Mahoney   Santa Barbara, CA
 
Yeah, spooky, especially when you can't find that high right and with an extended sling on the bolt below your feet... Mar 3, 2008
Matthew Fienup
Ventura, CA
 
Matthew Fienup   Ventura, CA  
 
Clipping the bolt at the crux is a little spooky. Blow the clip (or even blow it getting to the clip) and you'll blow your ankles. An orange or yellow TCU before the questionable clip will keep you safe. Aug 10, 2006
Noah
5.10b
Noah  
5.10b
Great moderate lead. One 5.10 move early on followed by well bolted 5.8 climbing to the top. Easy clips, lots of bolts. Feb 8, 2006