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Routes in Upper Gibraltar

A Route Runs Through It S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Crescent Direct, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crescent, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dazed and Confused S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Gibbon, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Slacker T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Soul, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Triple Overhang T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
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Type: Trad, 110 ft
FA: Joe Roland & Amos Clifford (early 1970s)
Page Views: 917 total · 9/month
Shared By: Matthew Fienup on Jul 13, 2010
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Climb the obvious thin crack (5.8+, the crux of the route) that is just to the right of the starting bolts on A Route Runs Through It. It is possible to place nuts and TCUs or to reach left and to clip bolts. When you reach the break, climb the left-leaning crack through the bulge. Once on the ledge atop the overhanging section, move 8 feet left and then follow the steep, crescent-shaped crack up and then right. From the top of the crack head straight up clipping the last two bolts of A Route Runs Through It.

Location

Immediately right of the start of A Route Runs Through It. See topo.

Protection

Gear from tiny to 3", bolts.

Photos

Matthew Fienup
Ventura, CA
  5.8+
Matthew Fienup   Ventura, CA  
  5.8+
This is a much more natural and enjoyable line than the original line for The Crescent. This is also one of the most sustained and interesting moderate routes in all of Santa Barbara. Jul 13, 2010

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