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Routes in Upper Gibraltar

A Route Runs Through It S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Crescent Direct, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crescent, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dazed and Confused S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Gibbon, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Slacker T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Soul, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Triple Overhang T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Sport, 120 ft
FA: B. Culver, J. Buhl, M. Brown, S. Edwards, 1993
Page Views: 1,238 total, 9/month
Shared By: M. Morley on Feb 5, 2006
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Dazed and Confused is the first bolted line encountered as you approach the crag from the Toxic Waste Wall (far left). The route is the longest one on the wall, at around 120'.

Start just right of a gully, and stay on the vertical, crimpy face past 3 or 4 bolts for full value. Bailing off left into the gully drops the difficulty down to 5.8. Move up and left, passing a few more bolts, to gain a ledge. Here's where a little gear comes in handy, as otherwise you'll have to make an unprotected couple of moves right before being able to clip the next bolt. A fall here wouldn't be advised. Use of a long sling off the ledge eases rope drag. Steep, featured face climbing past a few more bolts to the top.

Be extremely careful lowering if using less than a 70m rope!

Protection

Bolts, a couple TCUs, and at least one long sling.

Photos

steve edwards
SLC, UT
steve edwards   SLC, UT
We originally placed a rap anchor on the ledge. Someone (a local who hated paying for bolts/hangers and would borrow old hardware off anything short of stripping a route that was popular) pilfered the belay. I found the anchor on one of his routes later. I would have replaced them, because the ledge is a spectacular belay, but I wasn't guiding anymore and you can both belay on the ledge with gear and rap off of another route. I don't think anyone would care if that belay was replaced for convenience (and safety) if that crag is getting enough traffic that you don't always have it to yourself. Jan 12, 2014
the description suggests being careful if usig "less than" a 70m. I would suggest being extremely careful even with a 70m and im not sure a 60 would get you anywheere close. I moved over and rapped off the Route Runs Through It anchors and just made it to the higher ground at the base of that route. Also, beware of rockfall here. Your belayer should helmet up for this one. Jan 10, 2013
Of the three 5.10's on this crag, this one seems to be the most sustained and pumpy. I followed the bolt line closely, and it indeed seemed harder. May 25, 2011
Jeff Mahoney
Santa Barbara, CA
 
Jeff Mahoney   Santa Barbara, CA
 
Staying directly on the bolt line and slightly right here and there (not using the left edge holds) definitely raises the grade several ticks. Sep 22, 2008