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Routes in Upper Gibraltar

A Route Runs Through It S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Crescent Direct, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crescent, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dazed and Confused S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Gibbon, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Slacker T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Soul, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Triple Overhang T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, 120 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Herbert Rickert, 1950s
Page Views: 1,044 total, 7/month
Shared By: EricT on Feb 8, 2006
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Stem up the gully to a bushy ledge, then head right to the vertical crack. Climb to the alcove (optional belay) and then finish straight up with the crack.
This climb would grab another star if the brush bashing was eliminated.
Descent via rappel or off the east (climbers right) side via the path/scramble. NOTE: route is longer than 30 meters/100ft! Be careful on rappel!

Protection

The gear is quite wide above the alcove.

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I just did this route the other day, and I agree with the others, it is pretty stiff for a 5.6, and it was pretty tough to protect the overhangs and off-width sections (the cruxes). It also seemed to wander quite a bit, and between that, the overhangs and the 40mph gusts it was hard to communicate. If I were to do it again I would definitely do it in two pitches. Also, the bees are still there. Apr 29, 2016
Scott Scharfenberg
Santa Barbara, CA
  5.8
Scott Scharfenberg   Santa Barbara, CA
  5.8
Led this route on Saturday 7/27/2013 in one pitch, as there were no belay anchors and I didn't want to build one. About 3/4 of the way up there is a short section of overhanging, flared, slightly chossy offwidth, which I believe to be the 3rd overhang. There is nothing about that which would cause me to give this a 5.6 rating.

Between that, the unexpectedly stiff overhangs, and the bushwhacking, this route was a real challenge for someone who's led fewer than 5 trad climbs (me) and was expecting a quick romp up a 5.6. What was originally planned as the warmup became the only climb we did that day.

That being said, I had a blast. Will definitely repeat this route if I can convince someone to come out again. I'm absolutely nuts though--I doubt many will share my enthusiasm.

I highly recommend bringing some large pro. I had two #3 C4's with me and was wishing I'd had a few pieces that were larger.

The bees are still there btw. They're quite friendly--I hung out with 'em for a minute while I scoped out the traverse and looked for a non-existent set of belay anchors. Very peaceful little workers. It was neat. Jul 29, 2013
Brett Brotherton
Arvada, CO
Brett Brotherton   Arvada, CO
I agree with Matthew this is a sandbag as far as I can tell. After the first crack I had trouble finding an easy way to traverse over or a good gear placement at the top of the crack right before the traverse. Then belayed at the start of what I thought was the next crack made it over first overhang. Fun and not too bad. Then get to next offwidth/squeeze chimney/slight overhang and struggled to get through that. At one point almost had it but my helmet got stuck. So gave up and ended up doing what appears to be slacker which i thought was a definitely a solid 5.8. Anyone know if that chimney/crack to the right was part of triple overhang? I hope not if so I must have been missing something. It was the first crack pretty wide with ledge then narrows to the right of the crescent and there were bolts running up the face between crescent and this crack. Is this the route or still not far enough right? Also I brought a number 5 camalot and found it useful. Aug 22, 2008
Matthew Fienup
Ventura, CA
  5.8
Matthew Fienup   Ventura, CA  
  5.8
I have yet to find a route up this formation that feels anything like 5.6 or 5.7. By S.B. standards, the easiest line feels like solid 5.8 to me. The 5.6 suggested for this route in the Edwards guide is laughable. Aug 10, 2006