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Routes in Upper Gibraltar

A Route Runs Through It S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Crescent Direct, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crescent, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dazed and Confused S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Gibbon, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Slacker T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Soul, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Triple Overhang T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Sport, 110 ft
FA: Mike Brown & Jeff Buhl, 1992
Page Views: 2,546 total, 18/month
Shared By: M. Morley on Feb 5, 2006
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


21 Opinions

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Description

Perhaps the best line on the wall. Start right of Dazed and Confused. A tricky start leads to easier climbing past several bolts. Pull through the steep roof (awesome!), and continue up vertical crimpfest and crux.

Protection

Many bolts.

Photos

NKunstek
Santa Barbara, CA
  5.10d
NKunstek   Santa Barbara, CA
  5.10d
I agree. Though the crux is well protected, the moves feel a bit harder than 10c. Can go right into the OW crack for fun 5.9 OW, just bring a #4 BD cam to protect or else you have to run it out about 25 feet like I had to. :) Jan 24, 2011
Richard Shore
  5.10d
Richard Shore  
  5.10d
I think holds must have broken through the crux, felt harder than 10c to me. I thought it was harder than the 11a crux on vanishing flakes, so 10d is my vote :) Jan 23, 2011
Joseph Stover
Batesville, AR
Joseph Stover   Batesville, AR
Alert* the scramble up to the belay area has many large loose blocks. If you stay to the right it is not as terrible, but followers beware. Jun 8, 2010
Jeff Mahoney
Santa Barbara, CA
 
Jeff Mahoney   Santa Barbara, CA
 
Just move 10 feet over to the Gibbon/Soul bolts and rap from the links with a 60m. Angle slightly right at the bottom and you're good. Mar 3, 2008
Benjiman
Santa Barbara, CA
 
Benjiman   Santa Barbara, CA
 
I believe there are 12 or 13 bolts on this climb.
Route is ~35m long (rappelling with anything less than a 70m rope would be bad news). Oct 12, 2007