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Routes in Upper Gibraltar

A Route Runs Through It S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Crescent Direct, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crescent, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dazed and Confused S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Gibbon, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Slacker T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Soul, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Triple Overhang T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 909 total · 6/month
Shared By: EricT on Feb 8, 2006
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

From the lower level, take the right-most crack up to the horizontal break. Curve left and flow the arching crack up and left past the break.

Protection

Trad. Last little bit is sporty, I believe. Bolts on top

Photos

Matthew Fienup
Ventura, CA
  5.8
Matthew Fienup   Ventura, CA  
  5.8
I have yet to find a route up this formation that feels anything like 5.7. By S.B. standards, the easiest line feels like solid 5.8 to me. The 5.6 suggested for Triple Overhang is laughable. Aug 10, 2006
Richard Shore
  5.8 R
Richard Shore  
  5.8 R
Gear is practically non-existant on this line, which is interesting considering it used to be popular back in the 70's. Even with modern camming devices, you barely get anything. A good #4 at the bulge half-way, and this was the only piece I could convince myself that would hold a fall. There are a few bolts on nearby lines you could clip without much ado, but then you aren't really doing the route in proper style. May 25, 2011

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