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Routes in Upper Gibraltar

A Route Runs Through It S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Crescent Direct, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crescent, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dazed and Confused S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Gibbon, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Slacker T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Soul, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Triple Overhang T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Jeff Buhl & Mike Brown, 1992
Page Views: 623 total, 4/month
Shared By: M. Morley on Feb 5, 2006
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

The third bolted line from the left. Start at the top of the loose gully. 5.9ish climbing past 3 bolts up to the horizontal break, then continue STRAIGHT past a steep, awkward bulge (crux). There seems to be a trick here, but I'll let you figure it out for yourself. Continue on easier ground to a 2-bolt anchor.

Protection

Bolts, supplemental gear for upper section (optional).

Photos

Matthew Fienup
Ventura, CA
Matthew Fienup   Ventura, CA  
I don't recall there ever being a second set of anchors for the Gibbon/Soul. I've always used the anchors atop A Route Runs Through It et al. or built a traditional anchor.

The face to the right has long been a top-rope (and referred to in guidebooks). There is a single bolt on top that can be combined with bushes or a 3-inch cam to make a top rope anchor. Apr 3, 2013
Tom Shank
Santa Barbara, CA
Tom Shank   Santa Barbara, CA
Call me crazy, but I couldn't find the second pair of anchors for "The Soul" and "The Gibbon." Luckily I had enough to just climb up and over. Did they get removed recently? And, the face farther right looks promising, anyone ever think of bolting some routes there? Apr 3, 2013