Type: Sport, 80 ft (24 m)
FA: Rick Thompson & Pat Thompson, June 2001
Page Views: 3,691 total · 16/month
Shared By: Ivan Rezucha on Aug 26, 2005
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Description Suggest change

This is a nice moderate route on good rock right of the trad route that is right of Slab-a-dab-a-doo. It makes a good warmup for the harder climbs, being steeper than Gypsies in the Palace (the first pitch of Fire Widow), and it would fit in well with a day of moderate pitches including the 6 trad at the far left, Gypsies in the Palace and the first pitch of Alloy Madness.

The climb starts just left of the gully and angles gently left over several bulges. There's one particular hard move about half way up. Seemed harder than the 5.8 Gypsies in the Palace and seemed harder to me than the 5.9 first pitch of Alloy Madness (whose crux overhang off the ground seems easy for me). So 5.9 seems about right.

Protection Suggest change

Maybe 8 bolts (count them yourself) to a 2-bolt anchor with rings.

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