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Routes in Ironsides

Alloy Madness S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Double Hung S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Fire Widow aka Gypsies in the Palace S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
High Seas S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Left of Left of PortSide S,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Port Side T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Repeat Offender S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Slab-a-dab-a-doo T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unknown Left of Port Side S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Void Where Prohibited S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Welcome to Dystopia S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Rick Thompson & Pat Thompson, June 2001
Page Views: 2,216 total, 15/month
Shared By: Ivan Rezucha on Aug 26, 2005
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This is a nice moderate route on good rock right of the trad route that is right of Slab-a-dab-a-doo. It makes a good warmup for the harder climbs, being steeper than Gypsies in the Palace (the first pitch of Fire Widow), and it would fit in well with a day of moderate pitches including the 6 trad at the far left, Gypsies in the Palace and the first pitch of Alloy Madness.

The climb starts just left of the gully and angles gently left over several bulges. There's one particular hard move about half way up. Seemed harder than the 5.8 Gypsies in the Palace and seemed harder to me than the 5.9 first pitch of Alloy Madness (whose crux overhang off the ground seems easy for me). So 5.9 seems about right.

Protection

Maybe 8 bolts (count them yourself) to a 2-bolt anchor with rings.

Photos

Rick Thompson
Mount Nebbiolo, CO
Rick Thompson   Mount Nebbiolo, CO
Route info as follows:

Double Hung 9+/10a **
FA: Rick Thompson & Pat Thompson, June 2001
Rock with a different personality than its fellow Ironsides routes - expect crisp edges at a steeper angle. Begin twenty feet right of Nuts, Not Bolts and follow eight brown camo’d bolts past a low overlap on the left and sustained climbing above to a pair of Fixé’ ring anchors. 70 feet. Jul 13, 2011
Eliza  
This route was really fun, I'd give it 3 stars.
Just to the right of this route is a gully and just to the right of that is some other bolted route, 5 bolts + anchor. No clue what it is called or rated (thought is was hard) but at the 4th bolt the hanger ripped off of the bolt on my second. This was horrifying! Thankfully it happened after my lead. Anyway, this route is now missing a hanger and the one at the second bolt is loose too. May 27, 2006