Elevation: 9,000 ft
GPS: 40.163, -105.487 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 18,736 total · 85/month
Shared By: Michael Foy on Jul 1, 2002 with 1 Suggestions
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

Description

This granite wall is one of the best crags in this section of the Ironclads. It's a little harder to get to than the more familiar Ironclads crags, but definitely worth the 20 minute hike. The rock is a solid granite wall that has a moderate slab lower half leading to harder routes above. All routes except two short cracks are bolted, and all routes have bolted rappel anchors. The elevation yields breezy climbing with great views of the valley below, and offers morning shade in the summer. The routes range in difficulty from 5.6 - 5.11.

Getting There

To find Ironsides, drive up CO 7 to Allenspark from Lyons. 0.6 miles after the Peak to Peak (CO Hwy. 72), turn left at FR 115 right before the Bunce School (this is the turn off for all of the Ironclads climbing areas.) Drive up FR 115 (FR105?) for 1.2 miles to a pullout on the left with a tree in the center and a large boulder behind it. This road is hard on a 2WD car after the first 0.5 mile where you can park your buddies who don't own a 4WD vehicle. From the pullout, walk up the strenuous hill for 20 minutes from the other side of the road to a saddle between two domes. The dome on the left is "The Nose." Stay just right of the Nose and follow a trail that gradually goes left just below the saddle. Look for a good-sized bolted wall on your left with a stand of pine trees 10 feet from the base.

L->R:

A. Maiden Head, 6, 1p, 45', bolts or TR.
B. Walk the Plank, 7, 1p, bolts, 90'.
C. Port Side, 6, 1p, gear, 85'.
D. Fire Widow aka Gypsies in the Palace, 8 or 10, 1-2p, bolts + gear?, 85' or 140'.
E. Welcome to Dystopia, 10+, 1p, bolts, 120'.
F. High Seas, 11+, 1p, bolts, 110'.
G. Alloy Madness, 10+, 1p, bolts, 130'.
HG. Life Raft, 11-, 1p, bolts, 130'.
I. Slab-a-Dab-a-Doo, 10-, 1p, bolts, 80'.
J. Nuts, Not Bolts, 11- R, 1p, gear, 75'.
K. Double Hung, 9+, 1p, bolts, 80'.

On a separate pinnacle to the south:
L. Void Where Prohibited, 11- PG13, 1p, bolts & gear, 45'.
M. Repeat Offender?, 8, 1p, bolts, ~70'.
N. Unknown?, 9, 1p, bolts, ~80'.

Across the valley to the west:

R->L:

The Professionals, 11, gear + bolts.
Sump, 10+, gear + bolt.
unknown, 8, bolts.
unknown, 8, 2 bolts + gear, 90'.
unknown, 10, 1-2p, bolts + gear, 190'.
unknown, 9, 1p, bolts + gear, 85'.
unknown, 8+, 1p, bolts, 85'.
Arete across the minivalley. , 10, 1p, bolts.
unknown, 10+, 1p, bolts.
unknown, 8?, 1p.

Lump, 11, 1p, bolts.
Pump, 12, 1p, bolts.
Chump, 11, 1p, bolts, 30'.
Forrest Gump, 11-, 1p, bolts.

This is just a start, since more development has occurred since Gillett's guidebook.

11 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Ironsides

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 22
Double Hung
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 38
Fire Widow aka Gypsies in the Pa…
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 26
Alloy Madness
Sport
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
 7
High Seas
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Double Hung
 22
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
Fire Widow aka Gypsies in t…
 38
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Alloy Madness
 26
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
High Seas
 7
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Ironsides »

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