Type: Sport, 150 ft (45 m)
FA: 1st pitch Pontier and Pon, full route, Guerrieri and Brown.
Page Views: 3,498 total · 13/month
Shared By: Matt Juth on Jul 11, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Description Suggest change

This is the 2nd farthest left bolted route on the Ironsides. According to the Gillett guidebook, it was originally bolted as Gypsies in the Palace, which is the 5.8 section up to the first anchors. It was finished by a later party to the top of the wall. As with the other routes on this wall, the bolts are sparse but where you need them. Bring 2 ropes or rap to the mid-anchors, approximately 150 feet total.

The first "pitch" takes you up the low angled slab until the overlap. This is slightly run out 5.8. A few small pieces can be placed to relieve stress.

Pull up onto the hanging headwall on thin holds 5.10, and fire up through the crux (10c) on underclings and crimps (height helps). I climbed this prior to the guidebook coming out and recorded it in my notes as being a little harder.

Protection Suggest change

12 bolts (optional green Alien). You can tuck a few small pieces in the bottom section.