Fire Widow aka Gypsies in the Palace
Avg: 2.6 from 34 votes
Routes in Ironsides
|Alloy Madness S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Double Hung S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Fire Widow aka Gypsies in the Palace S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|High Seas S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a|
|Left of Left of PortSide S,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Port Side T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Repeat Offender S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Slab-a-dab-a-doo T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Unknown Left of Port Side S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Void Where Prohibited S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13|
|Welcome to Dystopia S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Type:||Sport, 150 ft|
|FA:||1st pitch Pontier and Pon, full route, Guerrieri and Brown.|
|Page Views:||2,164 total, 12/month|
|Shared By:||Matt Juth on Jul 11, 2002|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionThis is the 2nd farthest left bolted route on the Ironsides. According to the Gillett guidebook, it was originally bolted as Gypsies in the Palace, which is the 5.8 section up to the first anchors. It was finished by a later party to the top of the wall. As with the other routes on this wall, the bolts are sparse but where you need them. Bring 2 ropes or rap to the mid-anchors, approximately 150 feet total.
The first "pitch" takes you up the low angled slab until the overlap. This is slightly run out 5.8. A few small pieces can be placed to relieve stress.
Pull up onto the hanging headwall on thin holds 5.10, and fire up through the crux (10c) on underclings and crimps (height helps). I climbed this prior to the guidebook coming out and recorded it in my notes as being a little harder.