Type: Sport, 140 ft (42 m)
FA: "Eddie Pain" and Ryan Mills
Page Views: 3,068 total · 13/month
Shared By: Matt Juth on Jun 9, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


29 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
-none-

Description

Alloy Madness is the fourth bolted route from the left. It is comprised of a short 50' pitch and a longer crux pitch, or a single route. The first pitch is also good just by itself.

Fire up through a bouldery overhang past 2 bolts 5.9 continue over a small lid to the anchors. Belay or continue...

Follow a thin seam 5.9 until the bolts veer right. Traverse right under a small roof with a long reach (10d) leave a long sling, and regain the seam. Climb balancy moves (5.10) up until the angle eases off. Belay at the anchors.

Rap 90' to the mid anchors, or use 2 ropes and go to the ground.

Protection

17 bolts (including the mid anchor). Nuts or small cams are optional.

Photos