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Routes in Ironsides

Alloy Madness S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Double Hung S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Fire Widow aka Gypsies in the Palace S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
High Seas S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Left of Left of PortSide S,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Port Side T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Repeat Offender S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Slab-a-dab-a-doo T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unknown Left of Port Side S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Void Where Prohibited S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Welcome to Dystopia S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Sport, 140 ft
FA: "Eddie Pain" and Ryan Mills
Page Views: 2,170 total, 11/month
Shared By: Matt Juth on Jun 9, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

Alloy Madness is the fourth bolted route from the left. It is comprised of a short 50' pitch and a longer crux pitch, or a single route. The first pitch is also good just by itself.

Fire up through a bouldery overhang past 2 bolts 5.9 continue over a small lid to the anchors. Belay or continue...

Follow a thin seam 5.9 until the bolts veer right. Traverse right under a small roof with a long reach (10d) leave a long sling, and regain the seam. Climb balancy moves (5.10) up until the angle eases off. Belay at the anchors.

Rap 90' to the mid anchors, or use 2 ropes and go to the ground.

Protection

17 bolts (including the mid anchor). Nuts or small cams are optional.
Jeff G.
Fort Collins
Jeff G.   Fort Collins
All bolts on this route look suspect to me and are totally rusted through. Looks liked mixed metal corrosion (Galvanic corrosion). Jul 16, 2015
Nat T.
Flagstaff, AZ
 
Nat T.   Flagstaff, AZ
 
Fantastic route! Did it all in one pitch with a slightly truncated 70m rope (cut down to 67). I was able to rap down to a ledge where I could walk off. The moves get thinner after the crux towards the top. Maybe it was the length and fatigue taking it's toll, but the top felt harder than the moves in the middle.
Awesome route. You must have a 70m rope to do the whole thing in one pitch. I didn't see any spinners either :) Jun 10, 2012
Brent Apgar
Out of the Loop
 
Brent Apgar   Out of the Loop
 
I climbed this route today, it's a fantastic route, awesome movement on solid rock and it's fairly consistent throughout. A 70m rope should get you back to the ground if you do it in one pitch but just barely. About half the nuts on the bolts were loose, including both anchors, unfortunately I did not have a wrench w/ me... and my fingers aren't that strong. Aug 3, 2008
Mitch Musci
Estes Park, CO
Mitch Musci   Estes Park, CO
This is a great climb to do in one pitch (where else in the Estes Valley can you find a route with 17 clips?) This was definitely the most sustained of the 5.10s on the cliff, though the cruxes of all 3 seemed about the same difficulty. The crux traverse may involve the most powerful moves, but I feel was easier to solve than the slab moves above. The route is bolted very well, no need for additional protection. One of those anchor bolts at the top could use a tightening! Jun 20, 2008
Ivan Rezucha
Fort Collins, CO
 
Ivan Rezucha   Fort Collins, CO
 
I thought this was really good for a sport climb. So, 3 stars compared with other sport climbs. Long, varied, and sustained. Starting about 10' above the midway anchors, it's hard until just before the top. The first time I tried this I flailed all over but got it clean with a strugggle this time. The crux move right is not the crux for me. There's a trick low 10 way to do that move if you have a decent reach. The climbing below and above that seemed much harder. I placed a yellow Alien soon after regaining the crack on the upper section. The bolts are pretty far apart there. A 70m rope gets you to the ground. A 60m should get you to a ledge from which you can scramble down. Aug 28, 2005