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Routes in Ironsides

Alloy Madness S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Double Hung S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Fire Widow aka Gypsies in the Palace S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
High Seas S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Left of Left of PortSide S,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Port Side T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Repeat Offender S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Slab-a-dab-a-doo T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unknown Left of Port Side S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Void Where Prohibited S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Welcome to Dystopia S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Sport, 140 ft
FA: Alvino Pon
Page Views: 183 total · 1/month
Shared By: Matt Juth on Jun 9, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This is the next route right from Fire Widow. Begin climbing from the ledge, and pull a bouldery move past the first bolts (5.9). continue up the slab with a thin seam to the headwall. Climb past two 5.10 sections on the headwall, and belay at the anchors.

Rappel with two ropes, or swing to the right 85' to reach the anchors on Alloy Madness. A single 60m will JUST barely make it to the ledge that you can downclimb. If you forget knots, you will get hurt!

Protection

11 bolts.

Photos

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John Dubya
  5.11a
John Dubya  
  5.11a
This is a heady on-sight with sustained, technical moves and interesting gaps between bolts. Really good! Aug 25, 2012
This always seems far better then Fire Widow to me. Fire Widow is just one really irritating slab move, and lots of easy stuff, but this is steeper and more sustained.

It is just possible to lower your partner to the first bolt, and the ledge underneath, with a single 60m rope. Be careful! From here it is an easy downclimb for 15 feet. Jul 23, 2007

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