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Routes in Ironsides

Alloy Madness S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Double Hung S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Fire Widow aka Gypsies in the Palace S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
High Seas S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Left of Left of PortSide S,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Port Side T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Repeat Offender S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Slab-a-dab-a-doo T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unknown Left of Port Side S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Void Where Prohibited S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Welcome to Dystopia S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Sport, 110 ft
FA: Brown and Guerrieri, 1996
Page Views: 798 total, 10/month
Shared By: Guy H. on Jul 7, 2011
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

High Seas starts off of the upper ledge, right next to a lone tree. Moderate 5.10 moves lead to the steeper headwall. The second half of the route is charaterizated by high steps, thin holds, and difficult to read crux moves.

You can rap 100 feet to the 4th class ledge system.

Location

This is the first route left of Alloy Madness.

Protection

11 bolts.

Photos

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Mark Rolofson
  5.11d
Mark Rolofson  
  5.11d
This climb & Alloy Madness are the two best climbs on Iron Sides. I managed the onsight on this climb & repeated it first try as well. That said, the upper half of the climb get progressively harder the higher you climb. I would rate it 5.11d/12a. The steep face is less than vertical (80-85 degrees), so fighting a forearm pump wasn't a big issue. Rather reading the moves & trusting your feet. I thought the redpoint crux was getting to the last bolt, involving an insecure high step smearing on sloping footholds. The bolting is well thought & well-protected on the hard climbing. The runouts on the lower face aren't hard. Jun 28, 2017