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Routes in Ironsides

Alloy Madness S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Double Hung S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Fire Widow aka Gypsies in the Palace S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
High Seas S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Left of Left of PortSide S,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Port Side T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Repeat Offender S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Slab-a-dab-a-doo T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unknown Left of Port Side S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Void Where Prohibited S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Welcome to Dystopia S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Trad, Sport, 80 ft
FA: Allison Brown
Page Views: 166 total, 1/month
Shared By: Matt Juth on Jul 11, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


11 Opinions

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Description

Not a bomb... but not a star....

To the right of the main section of the Ironsides exists a moderate route with some weird slab moves. The route can be climbed with just the bolts, but a few placements make it safe, and make the crux more comfy.

Climb the slab past 2 roofs with a couple moves of 9 around the first roof, and move of 10- past the second. I remember placing a good piece at the second crux. Clip one last bolt, and veer right to the anchor.

80' rap.

Protection

6 bolts, and a few pro placements.

Photos

Umph!
 
Umph!  
 
Another good climb on good stone. 5.10b seems like an honest rating for most (10c if you're shorter). I didn't use gear for placements between the bolts (would've been happy to have used them), but did wonder at a few of the bolt placements. Why this route didn't continue up to an in-line rap station is beyond my understanding. . . other than that it was a fun climb.
103 degrees today down below, but we were loving it at 80 with some clouds, and even received a little rain! Jul 16, 2006
Ivan Rezucha
Fort Collins, CO
 
Ivan Rezucha   Fort Collins, CO
 
This didn't seem significantly easier than Fire Widow. Maybe we were getting tired. You climb right of the bolts at the bottom and left of the bolts up high. The bolts up high may be to the right of the line so as to be in better rock. You'll want at least a yellow and green Alien or equivalent for the long and non-trivial runout from the 5th to the 6th bolt. Aug 28, 2005