Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,134 total · 6/month
Shared By: Randy Carmichael on Jul 9, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


19 Opinions

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Access Issue: Rim Rock Trail Closure Details

Description

This large crack is near the middle of the Industrial Buttress (about 20 paces West of the 3rd Class gully that separates the MBA Buttress on the East and the Industrial Buttress to the West). The crack goes basically straight up, and then angles slightly left about half way up.

This is a great climb! From the first move to the last, the challenging moves in this crack just keep coming. The climbing is not obvious, which separates it from many climbs at Table. There are great jams, some interesting balancey face moves, and a fun off-width section about 3/4 of the way up. I would highly recommend the off-width, but my partner proved you can bypass the off-width on the face to the left with equally fun moves.

However..... There is some bad news with this climb. There is a major pile of pigeon shit deep in the crack about 10 feet up. It is best not to climb with your head in the crack at this point. A broom would work wonders for cleaning this area up.

I'm giving the first awkward move on this climb a 5.8, but the rest of the climb is 5.7 to 5.7+.

Protection

A standard rack including a #3 and #4 Camalot. A double sling for the anchor, and a double sling for a chockstone during the climb. There are no bolted belay anchors for this climb.

Photos

Mark Roth
Boulder
 
Mark Roth   Boulder
 
There is a huge rat, or rats that live in this route. You can avoid the mess, but don't be surprised if you see one in your face! It's nice to have a #4. You can bump it up most of the way... After every move there will be a bolt staring you in the face. Avoid clipping at all cost. I mean without rules, there would be friggin' anarchy!!

You can easily use the anchor from the dumb bolt route, or better yet step right and lower off the new hooks on Flight 67.... Jan 5, 2010
Jay Eggleston
Denver
 
Jay Eggleston   Denver
 
No rats or rat debris today. Apr 2, 2017
Benjamin Chapman
Small Town, USA
Benjamin Chapman   Small Town, USA
Rats and bolts in your face. Sounds unpleasant. Apr 7, 2017