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Routes in Industrial Buttress

Belly Up T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Belly Up Variation T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Blow Chow T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Darker is Better T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fast Boat to China T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Flight 67 to Stockholm S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Forgotten Names S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Heidi Hi T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Industrial Disease aka Dead Moonies Don't Sell Flowers S,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
John Roskelley Show or Polyvinyl Chloride, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Left-Hand Monkey Wrench T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Nipple Phyle T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Noodle Factory T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Politicians, Priests, and Body Bags T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Salad Bar once known as "The John Roskelly Show" T,S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Scarlett's Pulse T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Take Flight S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Thunderbird aka Light Beer T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Unknown 5.8 AKA Top Rope Face One T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
What Would Jesus Bolt S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,061 total, 6/month
Shared By: Randy Carmichael on Jul 9, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


18 Opinions

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Description

This large crack is near the middle of the Industrial Buttress (about 20 paces West of the 3rd Class gully that separates the MBA Buttress on the East and the Industrial Buttress to the West). The crack goes basically straight up, and then angles slightly left about half way up.

This is a great climb! From the first move to the last, the challenging moves in this crack just keep coming. The climbing is not obvious, which separates it from many climbs at Table. There are great jams, some interesting balancey face moves, and a fun off-width section about 3/4 of the way up. I would highly recommend the off-width, but my partner proved you can bypass the off-width on the face to the left with equally fun moves.

However..... There is some bad news with this climb. There is a major pile of pigeon shit deep in the crack about 10 feet up. It is best not to climb with your head in the crack at this point. A broom would work wonders for cleaning this area up.

I'm giving the first awkward move on this climb a 5.8, but the rest of the climb is 5.7 to 5.7+.

Protection

A standard rack including a #3 and #4 Camalot. A double sling for the anchor, and a double sling for a chockstone during the climb. There are no bolted belay anchors for this climb.

Photos

Benjamin Chapman
Small Town, USA
Benjamin Chapman   Small Town, USA
Rats and bolts in your face. Sounds unpleasant. Apr 7, 2017
Jay Eggleston
Denver
 
Jay Eggleston   Denver
 
No rats or rat debris today. Apr 2, 2017
Mark Roth
Boulder
 
Mark Roth   Boulder
 
There is a huge rat, or rats that live in this route. You can avoid the mess, but don't be surprised if you see one in your face! It's nice to have a #4. You can bump it up most of the way... After every move there will be a bolt staring you in the face. Avoid clipping at all cost. I mean without rules, there would be friggin' anarchy!!

You can easily use the anchor from the dumb bolt route, or better yet step right and lower off the new hooks on Flight 67.... Jan 5, 2010