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Routes in Industrial Buttress

Belly Up T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Belly Up Variation T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Blow Chow T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Darker is Better T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fast Boat to China T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Flight 67 to Stockholm S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Forgotten Names S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Heidi Hi T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Industrial Disease aka Dead Moonies Don't Sell Flowers S,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
John Roskelley Show or Polyvinyl Chloride, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Left-Hand Monkey Wrench T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Nipple Phyle T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Noodle Factory T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Politicians, Priests, and Body Bags T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Salad Bar once known as "The John Roskelly Show" T,S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Scarlett's Pulse T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Take Flight S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Thunderbird aka Light Beer T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Unknown 5.8 AKA Top Rope Face One T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
What Would Jesus Bolt S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
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Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: ??, 2000s
Page Views: 1,002 total · 7/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on May 16, 2007
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Rim Rock Trail Closure Details

Description [Suggest Change]

This is an entry for the route snuck in between Politicians, Priests, and Body Bags and Fast Boat to China. It is a bolted line which can be supplemented with a #1 Camalot to start and possibly a #0.5 or 0.75 Camalot up near the top. It is a bit squeezed. Anyone know the name or FA?

You can hand jam briefly to get off the ground to the right or face climb (harder) to the left of the 1st bolt. Clip, yard, big ledge. Clip. Delicately slither up the face or stem right in the finger crack briefly. Move up higher, clip. From here, you can try to bear hug the sucker or move left into a crack system or chicken off onto PPBB's crux face moves. Clip again, and the face eases up considerably. Join the top of Fast Boat to China and top out.

If you wander right and left of the bolts, you can make it 5.10, cluck, cluck, cluck. This is the apparent rating the the 2008 guidebook.

Location [Suggest Change]

This route is in between Politicians, Priests, and Body Bags and Fast Boat to China. It is left of the John Roskelley Show and right of Heidi Hi.

Protection [Suggest Change]

5-6 bolts, optional #1 Camalot to start, sorta unneeded but optional #0.5 or #0.75 Camalot near the top. 2 closely spaced anchor bolts.

Photos

jhump  
What is the squeeze job bolt line between PPBB and Fast Boat to China? It isn't in the guidebook or on this site. The hangers are cleverly unpainted for maximum "dig my route" value. Never more than a few feet from a solid crack line on either side. Takes away from both of the [decent] climbs that it crowds. Back East this would have been chopped before the last bolt was placed. Dec 21, 2005
Randy Carmichael
Boulder, CO
Randy Carmichael   Boulder, CO
If this new line takes anything away from PPBB, I'll be extremely bummed. Dec 23, 2005
David Hous
Boulder, Colorado
David Hous   Boulder, Colorado
Climbed that "squeeze job" today. Perhaps we should post the route separately under that name and move this discussion there! The first move off the ground is a really fun boulder problem style move. Being a chicken I would recommend a stick clip for the first bolt. The route is extremely contrived which makes it very difficult to rate. I was not able to do it without occasionally resorting to holds used by the routes on either side. I don't think it detracts from PP&BB though. Not a route I would do again or recommend despite the fun move off the ground...I think this would have been better left as a top-rope variation. Apr 22, 2007
richard berk
Denver, CO
richard berk   Denver, CO
It's been a while but as I remember.... We put up a route to the right of PPBB called "Salad Bar" about the same time as we put up PPBB. It started left, angling right (the crux), and then straight up to the PPBB hangers. I think it had one bolt protecting the move to the right and then 2 more higher up. Jan 22, 2008
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
 
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
 
By my recollection, this route was put in long (years) after PPBB was put in. It still is probably Salad Bar. BTW, what did you rate it? Jan 23, 2008
richard berk
Denver, CO
richard berk   Denver, CO
As I recall, easy 10. Jan 23, 2008
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
 
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
 
Hmmm. Could Salad Bar be Salad Bar once known as "The John Roskelly Show" or did the climbing line wind up dancing around the bolt line quite a bit? Salad Bar once known as "The John Roskelly Show" went in around the time of PPBB as I recall. Jan 23, 2008
richard berk
Denver, CO
richard berk   Denver, CO
Leo, you are right. The John Roskelly Show (as labeled on ) is what we called Salad Bar. The route labeled "I" PVC is what we called The John Roskelly Show (a kind of uninteresting offwidth in a corner).

Flight 67 was originally called "Flight 67 to Stockholm" and Industrial Disease was called "Dead Moonies Don't Sell Flowers" though we never led the route.

Were you climbing there back then? With your brother? Jan 24, 2008
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
 
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
 
Richard, thanks for the clarifications. It is interesting how names "change" or evolve over time. I think I went up there around the time of R&I article, but my brother mostly climbed ice back in CO then. Jan 24, 2008
Mikeco
Golden, CO
  5.11
Mikeco   Golden, CO
  5.11
I did this by staying in the middle of the arete until the feet disappeared, then I moved left into the crack just as PPBB is veering off to the left. Jammed a few moves there then did a difficult move or two diagonally, then straight up from there to the anchors. If that was the intent of the line, then it's an okay route and actually has some very nice finger and thin hands moves combined with some devious face moves at crux. The way I did it, doesn't overlap PPBB. Nov 17, 2008
Ralph Kolva
Pine, CO
Ralph Kolva   Pine, CO
Jason Haas and Ben Schneider in their new guide call this climb "W.W.J.B. (What Would Jesus Bolt)" and rate it rate it 10c. Jan 18, 2009
Monty
Golden, CO
  5.10c
Monty   Golden, CO  
  5.10c
I got on this route yesterday not knowing what it was, as I do with every route at Table. It seemed like a more direct line staying on the prow. I thought that this had to of been the original route and that the left route was the squeeze job. I guess everyone has a different eye. Feb 12, 2010
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
 
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
 
The rock under the right anchor bolt seemed cracked. Anyone think this should be replaced? Oct 26, 2011

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