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Routes in Industrial Buttress

Belly Up T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Belly Up Variation T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Blow Chow T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Darker is Better T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fast Boat to China T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Flight 67 to Stockholm S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Forgotten Names S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Heidi Hi T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Industrial Disease aka Dead Moonies Don't Sell Flowers S,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
John Roskelley Show or Polyvinyl Chloride, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Left-Hand Monkey Wrench T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Nipple Phyle T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Noodle Factory T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Politicians, Priests, and Body Bags T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Salad Bar once known as "The John Roskelly Show" T,S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Scarlett's Pulse T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Take Flight S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Thunderbird aka Light Beer T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Unknown 5.8 AKA Top Rope Face One T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
What Would Jesus Bolt S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Type: Trad, Sport, TR
FA: Richard Berk
Page Views: 1,583 total, 9/month
Shared By: Anonymous Coward on Nov 26, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

It is just left of Nipple Phyle. With top bolts and bolts to the top except for a blank middle, desperately needing a few cams to prevent any serious fall. A series of short cracks for the first two-thirds with an easier face climb for the last third.

An easier 5.10 ONCE you figure out the move. Just a beautiful, mixed, crack route. No crack lasts long, so you are sent to the next crack with a new type of move. Perfect for those starting out on the 5.10s as it continually engages you in altering your mode of movement.

Eds. according to richard berk, this "is what we called Salad Bar." "The route labeled "" PVC is what we called The John Roskelly Show (a kind of uninteresting offwidth in a corner)."

Protection

This is a bolted (4) route, except for a blank section through the middle that could leave a serious fall. A few small/medium size cams can quickly solve this problem.

Photos

Jay Eggleston
Denver
  5.10a
Jay Eggleston   Denver
  5.10a
This has four bolts on it. Apr 18, 2017
David A
Stockholm, Sweden
David A   Stockholm, Sweden
A 0.3 Camalot fits perfectly in a horizontal crack at the bottom of the final slab/bolted section. Jun 3, 2013
Mike Robinson
Worcester, MA
Mike Robinson   Worcester, MA
The crux is a few moves after the first bolt. There is a couple of crack moves 1 mantle and then some slab moves to finish the route.

This route is #102 in the guidebook, several routes left of Flight 67 to Stolckholm.

Protection [consists of] two bolts, a #2 cam and a #2 BD stopper. Apr 2, 2007
Randy Carmichael
Boulder, CO
Randy Carmichael   Boulder, CO
A fun and easier variation is to go left into the crack at the first bolt... take a couple small/medium cams for the pro. Apr 5, 2004
Shawn Shannon
Everett, WA
Shawn Shannon   Everett, WA
The first hanger is now spinning. Also, I noticed the bolts on this route have some sort of apoxy slathered on them. For my own education could someone explain this to me? Apr 13, 2003
Tricky 10a, but super climbing. Table seems to get a bad rap sometimes, but January climbing routes like this seems hard to complain. Jan 25, 2003