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Routes in Industrial Buttress

Belly Up T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Belly Up Variation T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Blow Chow T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Darker is Better T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fast Boat to China T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Flight 67 to Stockholm S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Forgotten Names S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Heidi Hi T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Industrial Disease aka Dead Moonies Don't Sell Flowers S,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
John Roskelley Show or Polyvinyl Chloride, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Left-Hand Monkey Wrench T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Nipple Phyle T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Noodle Factory T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Politicians, Priests, and Body Bags T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Salad Bar once known as "The John Roskelly Show" T,S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Scarlett's Pulse T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Take Flight S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Thunderbird aka Light Beer T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Unknown 5.8 AKA Top Rope Face One T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
What Would Jesus Bolt S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Type: Trad, Sport, 70 ft
FA: R. Berk, D. Hart, 1992
Page Views: 2,270 total, 11/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on Aug 25, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

Politicians starts on the left side of Industrial Buttress about 50 feet left of the painted 67. Climbing begins in a clean, right-facing dihedral with thin crack that takes a good TCU or two. Run up the corner to a ledge below a bolt protected face. This fires up to the anchor on fine basalt edge climbing at 5.10- that has been nicely protected. This is one of the better 5.10 face climbs on North Table Mountain, and one of the first-wave routes to go in here.

Protection

Bring half a dozen draws, a few thin camming devices (TCUs work well), and something for the double bolt anchor at the top.
Matt Richardson
Longmont, CO
  5.10a
Matt Richardson   Longmont, CO  
  5.10a
Thanks, Eric! This is a nice route that was in much need of some rebolting. What an alarmist I am! Sounds like it was not quite as desperate as I made it out to be. Apr 1, 2008
outdooreric
Bishop, CA
  5.10a
outdooreric   Bishop, CA
  5.10a
I just finished replacing the older bolts on PP&BB. No more spinner buttonheads. When I get my camera back from the shop, I'll submit some pics of the old ones. All three were 5/16", the first two buttonheads actually weren't too bad, but the highest (a short wedge type) was spinning in the hole. -Eric Sorenson. Feb 13, 2008
richard berk
Denver, CO
richard berk   Denver, CO
We hand drilled this 15 years ago (the 3/8" was added later). I would imagine those bolts are getting a little old. Nov 12, 2007
Matt Richardson
Longmont, CO
  5.10a
Matt Richardson   Longmont, CO  
  5.10a
I guess I am not fully understanding this route - is there a reason why the first bolt is a nice shiny 3/8" while the next three are expoxied buttonheads and the final is an old 1/4". And all of the last ones are currently spinning. I would say that this route is in desperate need of a retrofit. This is a worthwhile route and I for one would be willing to bring the bolts if someone has the drill...anyone? Nov 10, 2007
Jimn Seiler
North Platte, NE
 
Jimn Seiler   North Platte, NE
 
This is the best route I have done at Table although I have only been there 4 times. Apr 15, 2007
The new bolted line to the right is a bit close, but the bolting doesn't interfere with PPBB. The new line is a bit contrived. It is interesting climbing and seems like solid 5.11 if you take some care to avoid easier ground. Jan 2, 2006
A bomber #2 Camalot placed midway up the right crack protects the lower section quite well. You can place another TCU on the left if you're so inclined. Once you're on the ledge, you must decide whether you want to make the next move by coming in from the left, or by climbing straight up from below the overhang... we did it both ways. Good moves continue above. Great route. Dec 5, 2004
Richard M. Wright
Lakewood, CO
 
Richard M. Wright   Lakewood, CO
 
"So much abuse, so little time. Perhaps we can [get] more of these fixed up this winter." (If this was a course, I'd flunk myself for lack of editorial oversight.) By the way, if there are more anchor systems in need of repair, please list them here. Winter is a good time to catch up on gear replacement or up-grading. Additionally, for new routes, we have been shifting over to the "Boulder anchor", where the bolts are vertically off-set and then equalized with chain. If there is a general preference (within our financial grasp), it might be nice to hear these opinions. Last year Fixe gave a substantial amount of anchors and hangers to Mark Rolofson, and that went to a good cause, but the rest of us largely fronted the costs ourselves. It would still be useful to to get this process organized and get some of the costs off-set. Nov 4, 2003
Richard M. Wright
Lakewood, CO
 
Richard M. Wright   Lakewood, CO
 
So much abuse, so little time. Perhaps we can more of these fixed up this winter. Nov 4, 2003
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
 
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
 
IMHO, the best 10 at NTM. Thanks, Richard! This anchor has needed this for a while. Nov 4, 2003
Richard M. Wright
Lakewood, CO
 
Richard M. Wright   Lakewood, CO
 
New top anchor chains were installed on 3 March. The bolts do indeed need to be upgraded to 3/8 Rawl. Mar 12, 2002
Guy H.
Fort Collins CO
 
Guy H.   Fort Collins CO
 
You have the option of climbing the finger on the left or the hand crack on the right for the first 25ft. The easiest protection is in the crack to the left. TCU's and/or wires will do the trick. The top 3 bolts on the face are a little old and have hangers that spin. The climbing is positive, so enjoy. Mar 12, 2002
Richard M. Wright
Lakewood, CO
 
Richard M. Wright   Lakewood, CO
 
Thanks for the heads up. A lot of anchors at North Table have been used for top rope purposes, and this largely responsible for the wear you saw. It is generally a good principle to TR only through your own gear. I'll put these on the docket for replacement and try to get to it ASAP. You do suggest an interesting idea. How about organizing a day for gear up-grades on NTM? Sep 10, 2001
Richard: This cold shut anchor is getting quite worn from repeated use. Let's start a fund to replace these cold shut anchors at Table. It is just a matter of time for one these to fail. As you know, Table is like an outdoor gym on any given Sat/Sun. Stuart Allan. Sep 10, 2001