Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,792 total · 9/month
Shared By: Joseph Proulx on Dec 31, 2001 with updates from Jay Eggleston
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


51 Opinions

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Access Issue: Rim Rock Trail Closure Details

Description

This route starts at the same location as Politicians, Priests, and Body Bags, about 50' left of the painted 67. Climb up the right-facing dihedral as for PP&BB, but get onto the ledge to the left before you get to the first bolt. Then climb up a hand crack on a slightly overhanging face to a V-shaped slot and scramble up to the top.

The climbing is no harder than 5.8, but it's a bit tricky, and there aren't any rests above the ledge for a while, so gear-placement can be a bit tough. Not so good for top-roping, because the route wanders a bit and because it's a tough place to set up a good TR anchor. Nonetheless, the climbing is quite fun.

Protection

Several medium cams (about #1 or #2 Camalots, maybe a bit smaller for the bottom). Larger nuts may work in places, but are tough to set well. Long slings - the route wanders. Bolted anchor at the top.
Ron Olsen
Boulder, CO
  5.8
Ron Olsen   Boulder, CO
  5.8
A worthy Golden Cliffs trad route. Fun stems and jams up the initial corner, then a thin-hands crack and an airy layback into a V-slot.

Pro: Aliens to a #.75 Camalot; two or three #.75 Camalots to sew it up.

Belay from the top; go back and then right for the walk down. Oct 30, 2004
Sasha Richardson  
  5.8
Don't be scared off if all you don't have many cams. I found that larger nuts were easy to place. I used a #2, #1 and #0.75 Camalot, but would not have needed that many cams if I had a double set of nuts. Nov 10, 2007
outdooreric
Bishop, CA
  5.8
outdooreric   Bishop, CA
  5.8
There is now an independent bolted anchor for this route. I don't know the origin, but it certainly seems to be more environmentally responsible to rap off than to create more erosion by walking down. Jan 16, 2008
Jay Eggleston
Denver
 
Jay Eggleston   Denver
 
There are two #1 Camalots stuck in the crack. You only need up to a #0.75 Camalot. The crux on this is only a few moves. Mar 1, 2013
plantmandan
Brighton, CO
  5.8
plantmandan   Brighton, CO
  5.8
Super fun the entire route. There were 3 stuck cams in the upper section as of today. One of them is probably retrievable with the proper tools. Jan 14, 2017