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Routes in Industrial Buttress

Belly Up T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Belly Up Variation T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Blow Chow T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Darker is Better T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fast Boat to China T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Flight 67 to Stockholm S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Forgotten Names S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Heidi Hi T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Industrial Disease aka Dead Moonies Don't Sell Flowers S,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
John Roskelley Show or Polyvinyl Chloride, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Left-Hand Monkey Wrench T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Nipple Phyle T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Noodle Factory T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Politicians, Priests, and Body Bags T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Salad Bar once known as "The John Roskelly Show" T,S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Scarlett's Pulse T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Take Flight S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Thunderbird aka Light Beer T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Unknown 5.8 AKA Top Rope Face One T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
What Would Jesus Bolt S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: '92 by Scott Berk, free solo?
Page Views: 2,541 total, 14/month
Shared By: George Bell on Jan 31, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This is the left crack system between Politicians, Priests, and Bodybags and The John Roskelly Show. The upper part is visible in the photo below as the right-leaning twin cracks on the left side of the photo.

This climb seems to involve devious powerful moves between large ledges. Start at an overhanging crack and reach up for a "thank god handhold". From this ledge, a very thin crack continues, but I was unable to get my fingers into this crack and it seems a bit over 5.8. If you move right a few feet, some devious moves will get you onto the next ledge at the grade.

The upper part of the route follows nice twin cracks, exiting using the left crack. There is no anchor on top, but if you belay from gear you can easily walk back down by walking east 50 feet to an easy gully. Alternatively, you can lower off the anchor for Politicians, Priests, and Bodybags, but this is somewhat awkward to reach.

Protection

Pro to 2.5" with emphasis on cams under 1". Closely-spaced 2 bolt anchor.
Jay Eggleston
Denver
  5.8+
Jay Eggleston   Denver
  5.8+
This is difficult for a 5.8! Apr 18, 2017
Rob Davies UK
Cheshire, UK
  5.8+
Rob Davies UK   Cheshire, UK
  5.8+
A few tricky bits and polished like Stoney Middleton, so probably worth HVS 5a in UK grades. Oct 10, 2015
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.9-
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.9-
Awkward at the base and harder than 5.8 at the thin fingers section. Good though. Oct 14, 2013
rob bauer
Golden, CO
 
rob bauer   Golden, CO
 
Gosh, I've always thought that THIS was PP&BB, (so I was apparently lost, but I did it way over 10 yrs ago with the R&I topo?). [It's amazing what you learn with a book.] If you stay in the thin crack/acute corner, it seems 5.9+ [awkward with my size fingers] if you don't stem too much. (Further, I thought that the crack just right was an easier variation.) I stay in the corner until I get to the 2 bolt anchor. (I used nuts today and nothing larger than a 0.75 Camalot, though I essentially soloed to the 1st ledge.) So, jump on it if you're a trad climber and amaze the passerbys! Nov 1, 2009
percious
Bear Creek, CO
  5.9
percious   Bear Creek, CO
  5.9
This route now sports a nice two bolt anchor at the top. Apr 27, 2008
Stich Stich
Colorado Springs, Colorado
  5.8+
Stich Stich   Colorado Springs, Colorado
  5.8+
This is an excellent gear route in Golden Cliffs. We knocked it off just as the rains came today. Getting on the little shelf in the dihedral was probably the crux, but later there are some thoughtful sequences that you could just smear or take the time to work out. Pro is great the whole way. I concur with Ron's rating, too. A bit harder than other 5.8s at the crag. Dec 1, 2007
Ron Olsen
Boulder, CO
  5.8+
Ron Olsen   Boulder, CO
  5.8+
This is a fabulous pitch, and would merit three stars even if it were in Eldorado. Sustained, interesting climbing from bottom to top.

The easiest line starts in a crack to the right, then steps left to a good ledge. Place pro in the thin corner to the left, but climb to the right to keep the difficulty at 5.8+.

Near the end, you can angle up left to the anchor on "Politicians, Priests, and Body Bags" and lower, or layback up a hand crack to the right and belay from the top.

Pro: blue Alien to #2 Camalot; doubles on the #.75, #1, and #2 Camalots were useful. Oct 31, 2004
A great crack climb, but seemed way harder than 5.8. The thin crack George speaks of was too small for my fingers as well, and I fell a few times trying it. Then, it's pure fun though. I climbed Politicians etc. next and found it to be easier even the the grade suggests 2 grades harder. Apr 10, 2003
Near the top go right for a good short section of hand crack. Bring plenty of #3 Friends for the belay and the crack. Feb 4, 2003
richard berk
Denver, CO
richard berk   Denver, CO
The FA of this route was in '92 by Scott Berk, free solo. I think it is one of the funner trad leads at NT. Feb 3, 2003