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Left-Hand Monkey Wrench
5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British
Avg: 1.6 from 19
votes
Routes in Industrial Buttress
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Belly Up T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Belly Up Variation T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Blow Chow T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Darker is Better T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Fast Boat to China T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Flight 67 to Stockholm S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Forgotten Names S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Heidi Hi T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Industrial Disease aka Dead Moonies Don't Sell Flowers S,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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John Roskelley Show or Polyvinyl Chloride, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Left-Hand Monkey Wrench T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Nipple Phyle T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Noodle Factory T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Politicians, Priests, and Body Bags T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Salad Bar once known as "The John Roskelly Show" T,S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Scarlett's Pulse T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Take Flight S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Thunderbird aka Light Beer T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Unknown 5.8 AKA Top Rope Face One T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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What Would Jesus Bolt S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
| Type: | Trad, TR, 60 ft (18 m) |
| GPS: | 39.76842, -105.21838 |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 2,330 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | Randy Carmichael on Jul 27, 2002 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: Please Obey Speed Limits & Rim Rock Trail Closure
Details
It's likely few climber go there, but it may affect the adventurous.
Description
This climb is a little tricky to find; it is left of "Polyvinyl Chloride" and right of "The John Roskelly Show". Standing at the base of the climb you will see the "Left-Hand Monkey Wrench" crack, which starts out as a broken crack going straight up; the crack angles right, then becomes cleaner as it follows a left facing dihedral at the top of the crag. Standing at the base, you can also see a bolt on "The John Roskelly Show" arete about 20 feet up and to your left. About 10 feet to your right and 10 feet up is a faded O.C. painted on the wall. Towards the top of the crack, a block separates this left facing dihedral from the cleaner, right-facing dihedral, which is "Polyvinyl Chloride".
Start by climbing the broken crack. You will then negotiate a couple of ledges with interesting mantel moves, which may be the crux for some. When you reach the cleaner crack in the left facing dihederal, the climbing becomes slightly overhung. The crux for me was in the middle of the dihederal. Past this point, there are a couple of easy moves to the top. As usual, watch for loose rock on top, and there are plenty of wide cracks available to setup a bomber anchor for the belay.
This climb would not be a good first 5.7 trad lead, because several sections of the climb, including the cruxes, are protected with marginal small stoppers.
2 Comments