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Routes in Industrial Buttress

Belly Up T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Belly Up Variation T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Blow Chow T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Darker is Better T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fast Boat to China T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Flight 67 to Stockholm S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Forgotten Names S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Heidi Hi T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Industrial Disease aka Dead Moonies Don't Sell Flowers S,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
John Roskelley Show or Polyvinyl Chloride, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Left-Hand Monkey Wrench T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Nipple Phyle T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Noodle Factory T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Politicians, Priests, and Body Bags T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Salad Bar once known as "The John Roskelly Show" T,S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Scarlett's Pulse T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Take Flight S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Thunderbird aka Light Beer T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Unknown 5.8 AKA Top Rope Face One T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
What Would Jesus Bolt S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Type: Trad, TR, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,373 total, 7/month
Shared By: Randy Carmichael on Jul 27, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


18 Opinions

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Description

This climb is a little tricky to find; it is left of "Polyvinyl Chloride" and right of "The John Roskelly Show". Standing at the base of the climb you will see the "Left-Hand Monkey Wrench" crack, which starts out as a broken crack going straight up; the crack angles right, then becomes cleaner as it follows a left facing dihedral at the top of the crag. Standing at the base, you can also see a bolt on "The John Roskelly Show" arete about 20 feet up and to your left. About 10 feet to your right and 10 feet up is a faded O.C. painted on the wall. Towards the top of the crack, a block separates this left facing dihedral from the cleaner, right-facing dihedral, which is "Polyvinyl Chloride".

Start by climbing the broken crack. You will then negotiate a couple of ledges with interesting mantel moves, which may be the crux for some. When you reach the cleaner crack in the left facing dihederal, the climbing becomes slightly overhung. The crux for me was in the middle of the dihederal. Past this point, there are a couple of easy moves to the top. As usual, watch for loose rock on top, and there are plenty of wide cracks available to setup a bomber anchor for the belay.

This climb would not be a good first 5.7 trad lead, because several sections of the climb, including the cruxes, are protected with marginal small stoppers.

Protection

CAMs to 3.5" and small stoppers. There is no fixed anchor. The larger CAMs are used for the anchor.

Photos

Jay Eggleston
Denver
  5.7
Jay Eggleston   Denver
  5.7
You definitely place RPs on this climb. In fact, some of the hardest moves are protected by them. The steepest section is protected by #1 Camalots. Mar 20, 2013
Doug Redosh
Golden, CO
  5.7+
Doug Redosh   Golden, CO
  5.7+
I would second the suggestion on the small stoppers, even RPs. One of the best trad routes for the grade at Table I have done, though admittedly have not done many. Apr 6, 2005