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Routes in Parachute Rock

5.9 Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
A2 Route T A2
Alcove 5.9 Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
B'ing There T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Benz Climb T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Burgers T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Caped One, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fogg Spire S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Grunt, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Illegal Smile T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lost Cord T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Miss Bliss T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
No Chute aka Rip Cord T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Not Quite Jake T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Pete and Benz T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Slip Slidin' Away T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Texas DJ T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
True Religon T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Tom A. & Larry Schubarth, 1982
Page Views: 1,679 total, 10/month
Shared By: Ken Heiser on May 22, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

Parachute is divided into two sections. The left broad slabby area, and up and right the alcove. The righthand end of the slabby area is terminated by a short wall of boulders with an easy access upwards to the alcove. At the righthand end of the slab is a narrow face bordered on the left by a bushy 5.5 crack and on the right by the arete formed by the right edge of the face. This route climbs the more or less continuous crack system on the left side of the narrow face just to the right of the bushy 5.5 crack.

The crack starts with an easy mantle and then the fun begins. The next 45 feet or so comprise the crux which is really fun face/smearing/fingercrack climbing on good pro. At about 50 feet, the angle eases and there is about 40 more feet of 5.6 to the 2 bolt anchor atop the "5.9 alcove route".

I really liked the cool crack systems at Parachute and thought it to be a really unique little crag. I thoroughly enjoyed this route and would recommend it as a nice 5.10 lead and a good break from clipping bolts.

A comment on the rating: I have climbed a long time and don't spend any time debating letter grades. I used the rating from Hubbel's guide as it seemed ballpark to me. Have fun ;-)

Protection

I used a combination of HB offsets, small to medium stoppers and a couple small to medium cams. The protection overall was excellent on this pitch even though it doesn't look it from the ground. Climbs to the two bolt anchor atop the "5.9 alcove route" for easy rappelling, toproping or lowering.

Photos

Ralph Kolva
Evergreen, CO
  5.10c PG13
Ralph Kolva   Evergreen, CO
  5.10c PG13
I rated the pro as PG-13 only because the first placements are a little fussy and if you blow the moves with sketchy gear you will likely deck. There are 2 small placements to be had from good stances, but make sure they are solid, as the next move is no gimmie and the next placement is about another body length above. Think I used a #2 or #3 slider nut that was bomber after not getting a good placement for an Alien.

Fun climb, and the gear gets better the higher you go. Oct 20, 2014
erik rieger
Ridgway, CO
 
erik rieger   Ridgway, CO
 
This climb is excellent! It protects fine with a couple small HBs and TCUs. Apr 1, 2012
Tom A.
Co. Springs
Tom A.   Co. Springs
This is actually named Slip Slidin' Away. First ascent in spring 1981 by myself with Larry Schubarth seconding, thought it was hard 5.9. Very smooth and liquid movements with little brass RPs for protection. Jan 29, 2008
TBD
  5.10
TBD  
  5.10
Very fun climb. The small amount of vegetation adds to the ambiance. The first half of the climb definitely keeps your interest. Aug 13, 2007