Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Tom E. & Tom A., 1982
Page Views: 2,999 total · 15/month
Shared By: Joe Keyser on Sep 7, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

40 Opinions

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The rock itself is separated (by a huge boulder) into two sections...a slabby area on the left that leads to a second pitch headwall, and an ampitheater on the right that contains some solid one pitch cracks. This is the furthest right of the routes in the amphitheater.

Starts out with some nice widish jams for about 20-30 feet. Step left over a bulge to a nice finger crack. The finger crack didn't like my stoppers too much, but was easily sewed up with a green Alien. In a way, these moves reminded me of the first pitch of Pear Buttress at Lumpy. Continue up the finger crack that widens so thin hands, and cruise past an easy bulge to the top. Walk off right. Fun.

Eds. note, this was submitted initially as Flake Route.


Hand size for the botton, TCUs for the finger crack, and a couple mid range cams for the top.


number 7 Feb 14, 2003
Ken Heiser
Boulder, CO
Ken Heiser   Boulder, CO
I really loved this little route.Super rock great holds and great moves. Even a chickenhead at the top!! May 25, 2004
That girl in the picture is smok'in hot!!!! Someone should marry that girl! Jun 3, 2004
Darin Lang
Darin Lang  
All of the alcove routes are great, but this was the best of the bunch. This might make a good first lead for someone who has done some crack climbing, as the crux is short and all the gear can be placed from good stances. Jun 10, 2004
Tom A.
Co. Springs
Tom A.   Co. Springs
This was named Illegal Smile. 1st ascent was in 1982 by myself with Tom E. following, was 5.8 at the time and sounds like it still is. Also a great John Prine song. Jan 29, 2008
England   ?
Very fun climb. The only thing about this area that freaks me out a bit is the large rock(roof) above the anchors looks like it's about to fall off. Photo of the lady on this page is not Illegal Smile. Aug 24, 2009
Alex A
Alex A  
Fun and good pro, for some for reason it was called the Flake Route, in the Platte guide, the photo of the women on 1st pitch is not the 5.8 at the alcove it's not Illegal Smile, note there are trees at the base, I think she's on the Caped One. Apr 17, 2010