Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 505 total · 15/month
Shared By: Daniel H. Bryant on Jun 11, 2016
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


12 Opinions

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Description

This is a crack climb, just left of 'B'ing There' and right of 'Texas DJ'. It's the widest/deepest crack on this face of Parachute Rock. The start has a nice finger slot inside along the crack (which makes for a short layback) and good friction through out the entire climb. Mid way up is the crux, which will feel a bit stiffer than 5.6 if you are not familiar with jamming.

Protection

Medium to large cams and medium length runners. A small tree at the top of the crack can be used too. The top anchors for 'Texas DJ' are shared with this route.
RyanSender  
 
This was the first climb I did at this area. I found it to be a very enjoyable scramble to the top. The start of the climb has two funky moves to gain the nice hand flake, then it is off to the races.

In the mid-section, there is a flare in the crack for about 15 feet. A #3 and/or #2 Camalot protects this section. Use face holds and crystals to get to some bomber jugs.

Enjoy the area! Oct 31, 2016
Ace Boogie
Hollywood, FL
 
Ace Boogie   Hollywood, FL
 
A great alternate pitch 2 is to go up a couple blocks above P1 to the low angled slab/arete on the left of the upper formation. From there, it is 5.5 up to a short 5.6 corner with great hands. It would protect well I'm sure, but I've soloed it both times. There is also a right angle corner left of the 2nd pitch headwall I'd like to try.... I don't think either of these have bolted anchors. This entire crag is such a playful feature! Jul 19, 2018