Type: Trad, 190 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Tom E. & Tom Austin, 1981
Page Views: 3,128 total · 16/month
Shared By: Joe Keyser on Sep 7, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

39 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:

     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:

-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick


This route is on the left section of the rock. Climb up about 150 feet of easy rock to the base of the final headwall. The first pitch lets you choose from a variety of easy cracks, and slabs, mostly 5.4, and maybe a move or two of 5.7 depending on where you go. It is possible to traverse off left before you end the pitch. Watch out for some loose blocks on this pitch. The book gave this an R, but, I dont really think so as long as you are careful about loose stuff.

The second pitch headwall is very nice, but also, very short. There are about three cracks to choose from on this section, we took the rightmost hand crack. If this crack was three times as long, it would get three stars. But, the summit is nice, and you walk off straight back, and left, passing a very short 5.11a (boulder problem) on the back side of the crag. The view from the summit is spectacular with Pike's Peak in front of you. I'd recomend this as a warm up for the cracks on the right side of the crag....


Standard rack.


There is a 2 bolt anchor at 100 feet. You can just rap it with a 60m rope. Fun route. Aug 2, 2004
Tom A.
Co. Springs
Tom A.   Co. Springs
First ascent Tom Austin and Tom E. 1981. Steve Cheney called this Tom Squared one afternoon after looking at pictures. Jan 29, 2008
Rich F.
Colorado Springs, CO
Rich F.   Colorado Springs, CO
This was a great climb. The rock is excellent and the steep 5.7 parallel finger cracks on the 2nd pitch were really fun. The view from the top of Parachute Rock is fantastic. The anchors and rap rings for both belay stations are in great shape. We rapped down. Nov 5, 2010
I enjoyed this climb and would do it again. I stayed closer to the right by the major crack on the first pitch and chose not to belay from the rings. Instead I moved to the right, onto what looked like a pile of loose rock but actually has a nice stance and is clean.

Because it was windy the day I climbed it, I chose to belay at the base of the final headwall and turned it into 3 pitches. This helped to deal with rope drag and communication issues. The ledge at the base of the head wall has a lot of loose rock, so be careful.

Also at the base of the headwall, there are rope eating rocks! Be mindful as you pull the rope for the rappels!

I really wished the last pitch was longer! Great exposure (in comparison to the first pitch) and bomber hands and feet. Oct 31, 2016
Adam Block
Colorado Springs, CO
Adam Block   Colorado Springs, CO
Linkable with the Caped One for a more sustained outing. The right handcrack keeps the drag down. Jul 23, 2018