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Routes in Parachute Rock

5.9 Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
A2 Route T A2
Alcove 5.9 Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
B'ing There T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Benz Climb T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Burgers T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Caped One, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fogg Spire S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Grunt, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Illegal Smile T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lost Cord T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Miss Bliss T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
No Chute aka Rip Cord T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Not Quite Jake T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Pete and Benz T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Slip Slidin' Away T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Texas DJ T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
True Religon T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 190 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Tom E. & Tom Austin, 1981
Page Views: 2,887 total, 16/month
Shared By: Joe Keyser on Sep 7, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This route is on the left section of the rock. Climb up about 150 feet of easy rock to the base of the final headwall. The first pitch lets you choose from a variety of easy cracks, and slabs, mostly 5.4, and maybe a move or two of 5.7 depending on where you go. It is possible to traverse off left before you end the pitch. Watch out for some loose blocks on this pitch. The book gave this an R, but, I dont really think so as long as you are careful about loose stuff.

The second pitch headwall is very nice, but also, very short. There are about three cracks to choose from on this section, we took the rightmost hand crack. If this crack was three times as long, it would get three stars. But, the summit is nice, and you walk off straight back, and left, passing a very short 5.11a (boulder problem) on the back side of the crag. The view from the summit is spectacular with Pike's Peak in front of you. I'd recomend this as a warm up for the cracks on the right side of the crag....

Protection

Standard rack.

Photos

RyanSender  
 
I enjoyed this climb and would do it again. I stayed closer to the right by the major crack on the first pitch and chose not to belay from the rings. Instead I moved to the right, onto what looked like a pile of loose rock but actually has a nice stance and is clean.

Because it was windy the day I climbed it, I chose to belay at the base of the final headwall and turned it into 3 pitches. This helped to deal with rope drag and communication issues. The ledge at the base of the head wall has a lot of loose rock, so be careful.

Also at the base of the headwall, there are rope eating rocks! Be mindful as you pull the rope for the rappels!

I really wished the last pitch was longer! Great exposure (in comparison to the first pitch) and bomber hands and feet. Oct 31, 2016
Rich F.
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.7
Rich F.   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.7
This was a great climb. The rock is excellent and the steep 5.7 parallel finger cracks on the 2nd pitch were really fun. The view from the top of Parachute Rock is fantastic. The anchors and rap rings for both belay stations are in great shape. We rapped down. Nov 5, 2010
Tom A.
Co. Springs
Tom A.   Co. Springs
First ascent Tom Austin and Tom E. 1981. Steve Cheney called this Tom Squared one afternoon after looking at pictures. Jan 29, 2008
There is a 2 bolt anchor at 100 feet. You can just rap it with a 60m rope. Fun route. Aug 2, 2004