Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: Peter Gallagher & Bob D 1981
Page Views: 956 total · 7/month
Shared By: Ron Olsen on Mar 30, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


7 Opinions

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Description

The obvious overhanging crack on the north face of the rock.

Location

On the north face.

Protection

Gear to a gold camalot.

Photos

Climbed this last weekend (5/24/08). If felt pretty stiff for 5.11a, at least for a small ape factor. The 11a section is only two moves or so. Sure is a great climb though. The crux section on this 30 ft climb is going from a great jam/undercling and finger jam up high to great hand jams. I seemed too short to get to the hand jam, I managed to get a bomber knuckle jam at the bottom of the crack. Unfortunately, my feet slipped and I ended up tearing A LOT of skin off both sides of my knuckle. My partner had better beta, which involved pulling on the other side of the toprope. I too succumbed to this, just to feel what the hand jams were like had I made the reach. If you can they are great! Of course you'll need them to smear your feet up the final overhanging six feet.

Probably the most aesthetic climb at this crag, sure sucks it's only 30 ft high or so. May 29, 2008
SammyJ
Colorado springs
SammyJ   Colorado springs
Be careful setting up a TR on this guy as there is a tight constriction at the top of the climb that will swallow your rope and is extremely difficult to remove. Probably where the route name comes from. Sep 7, 2017
Ron Pivo
Westcreek
Ron Pivo   Westcreek
Definitely not where the name came from.... Sep 7, 2017