Type: Trad
FA: Tom E. & Tom A., 1981
Page Views: 1,397 total · 8/month
Shared By: Darin Lang on Jun 4, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


17 Opinions

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Description

The Grunt is number 2 in the diagram below. It's only a "Grunt" for a couple of body lengths, with the rest being a pleasant hand-ish dihedral crack. Ascend the obvious right-leaning OW on the left side of the alcove, between "5.9 Route" and "Alcove 5.9 Route". Either start at the bottom of the OW or undercling a flake to gain access. Either way, the crux is the first couple of bodylengths above the flake. Continue up the dihedral to the same anchor as the 5.9 routes to the left and right.

Protection

Camalots #1-5 (including #4.5) will sew it up. The top section would also take some stoppers or hexes if you're so inclined.

Photos

Dan Battin
5.10a
Dan Battin  
5.10a
Interesting climb. Truly a grunt at the begining. I chiped a tooth clenching my jaw on this climb. Every time my toung feels that rough spot on my tooth I remember that climb. Oct 27, 2004
I never got to climb this, because when I was belaying Dan this huge rock moved on him and freaked the living crap out of me. So, he cleaned his gear on rap. Nov 8, 2007
Tom A.
Co. Springs
Tom A.   Co. Springs
The first ascent of this one was in 1981, thought it was 5.8 maybe 5.8d. Lead by myself with Tom E. seconding. A great starter for awful width leaders. Jan 29, 2008
England
?
  5.8
England   ?
  5.8
Maybe I fit into this crack just right, but I thought that the first few moves might go 5.8. After the initial moves the climb gets much easier. Aug 24, 2009