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Routes in Parachute Rock

5.9 Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
A2 Route T A2
Alcove 5.9 Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
B'ing There T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Benz Climb T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Burgers T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Caped One, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fogg Spire S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Grunt, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Illegal Smile T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lost Cord T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Miss Bliss T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
No Chute aka Rip Cord T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Not Quite Jake T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Pete and Benz T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Slip Slidin' Away T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Texas DJ T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
True Religon T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 2 pitches
FA: Tom A. & Mac Johnson, fall 1981
Page Views: 1,830 total, 10/month
Shared By: Barrett Cooper on Aug 6, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


27 Opinions

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Description

Get into the alcove on the southeast face of Parachute (see Alcove 5.9 route for directions). True Religion starts at the climbers right corner of the angled slab out of the alcove. It is about 15 feet of true 5.10c where you lay back and smear with the feet up the slightly overhanging corner crack. It is an amazing finger crack and feels totally solid with good depth and a sharp corner. The scary part for me was the feet at the exit of the overhang onto the main southeast face. Once on the face it follows the hand and finger crack ~5.9 up to where all the southeast face pitches end, at the second pitch that takes you up to the top of Parachute.

Pitch 2 starts left of the corner between the south face and the southeast face.

Protection

I TR'd it after climbing up the Alcove 5.9 route, but small Camalots #0.25-.5 for the alcove crack and up to #2 Camalot for face crack. You can actually test your pro to see what works for you at the top of the slab before you commit to the corner crack.
Tim Stich
Colorado Springs, Colorado
  5.10c
Tim Stich   Colorado Springs, Colorado
  5.10c
I was actually surprised how solid the layback was. As you get higher, it gets deeper and more sharp, allowing you to really grip the edge well. Establishing yourself in the crack above the layback felt like the crux. Jun 25, 2008
Tom A.
Co. Springs
Tom A.   Co. Springs
First ascent was with Mac Johnson on lead and myself following. Mac thought it was 5.10 and it was one of my 1st 10,s so I thought it was hard. Done fall of 1981. Jan 29, 2008
TBD
  5.10+
TBD  
  5.10+
I agree that this route feels harder than 5.10 on lead. Gear placement is very strenuous and difficult to see. The rock is very slick, so all the stances are tenuous. It is much easier on TR, when you can lay it back and fire through the steep start. Aug 13, 2007
Michael J Yarros
Colorado Springs, CO
 
Michael J Yarros   Colorado Springs, CO
 
I aid-soloed this route today. This is a great route. The rock quality is excellent. The most challenging part obviously the overhanging crack section. Also, Thanks to whoever put the Bolted Rap station(s) at the top of the first pitch. Mar 5, 2005
Darin Lang
  5.10d
Darin Lang  
  5.10d
A committing lead, and pretty burly for 10c. I've climbed some easier 11s, but I'll split the difference and call it 10d. Jun 10, 2004
Number 5. Feb 14, 2003