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Routes in Left Book

Beelzebub T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
Cottontail T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dog, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hiatus T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Left Out (aka Lost Crack) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Manifest Destiny T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Well Hung T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Whale Rider T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
White Whale T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Zingando T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 250 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 4,473 total, 25/month
Shared By: Steve Marr on Apr 12, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Season raptor closures Details

Description

Cottontail is located on the Left Book between Manifest Destiny and Zingando. Like Zingando, it's an excellent choice when the more popular routes like Hiatus and White Whale are occupied. The start is up and to the left of the base of the wall, under two, left-facing, left-angling dihedrals.

P1. Face climb a short distance to the bottom dihedral (Manifest Destiny climbs above the upper dihedral) and then continue up and left to a spacious belay in what Gillett calls a left-facing "curious mouth-shaped belay stance."

P2. By far the best pitch. Continue up and left to join a long, sustained, right-facing dihedral. There are actually a couple of finger to hand sized cracks for protection. The dihedral bulges to the right and then cuts back to the left. Be careful with protection here, as a bad placement will result in terrible rope drag higher up (where you don't want it). Continue up the sustained dihedral and belay at the top on Paperback Ledge. Walk off to the left.

From the second belay, you can climb a short, easy pitch to the right that leads up to the Hiatus/White Whale finish. Good, sustained climb.

Protection

Standard rack - stoppers and cams.

Photos

SteveF
Fort Collins, CO
  5.7
SteveF   Fort Collins, CO
  5.7
I had a problem with the rope getting stuck in the top corner of the first dihedral section of the P2 when belaying my second, even though I placed gear fairly far above and below it, AND I flicked the rope over the top corner of the dihedral. I'd like to know how others avoid this. Actually placing a piece directly in the corner to prevent the rope from getting jammed may have helped.

The climbing felt about as difficult and maybe slightly harder than White Whale. Aug 14, 2016
Mark Roth
Boulder
 
Mark Roth   Boulder
 
2nd pitch is classic. This is a good alternative to the more popular routes here if the lines are too long (always). May 17, 2009
Sarge
 
Sarge  
 
Great route. Best done while simul-climbing. The dihedral on the last pitch is great. Nov 1, 2008
craggin carl  
5.7+
Another intricate slab jubilee of fascinating movements. Truly a rare precious peach of a climb. This was our last climb today, was kind of tired, so I thought it was a bit harder, 5.7c/d. Aug 2, 2005
Slippery when wet. Jul 29, 2004