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Routes in Left Book

Beelzebub T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
Cottontail T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dog, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hiatus T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Left Out (aka Lost Crack) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Manifest Destiny T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Well Hung T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Whale Rider T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
White Whale T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Zingando T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
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Type: Trad, 125 ft
FA: Kimball and Rusty George, 1984
Page Views: 1,072 total · 7/month
Shared By: Eli Helmuth on Apr 25, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: Season raptor closures Details

Description

This is the right one of two crack routes on the pretty slab just left (west) of the entrance to the Renaissance Wall Canyon on what is known as the "East Face of the Left Book". Climb the obvious crack through a small overlap and stay in the crack until it ends, then step right into the dihedral which is a bit dirty and takes one to the top of the slab.

Location

Rappel from the anchor at the top of the 80' pitch or if you take this pitch up for almost 50 meters, heading left to a large ledge, you can rappel or traverse east to descend. The crack starts off a small ledge above a small slab on the opposite side of the tight canyon and a little downhill (100' distance) from another classic Kimball route, "The Man Who Loved Cat Dancing, done in '79."

Protection

Full range of nuts and cams to 3". There is a pro and 1 bolt anchor at the top of the first 80' from the route, "Shinbuster" which joins Left Out at this point. You can also bypass this anchor and climb up and left for another 40' of quality climbing to the top of a large ledge system which can be traversed south into the Bookmark Pinnacle chimney.

Photos

jason seaver
Estes Park, CO
jason seaver   Estes Park, CO
This route is called Left Out - 5.9 Scott Kimball and Rusty George, 1984. It is located on the east face of the Left Book, as well as on page 91 of the Gillett book. Jun 7, 2006
Eli Helmuth
Ciales, PR
  5.9
Eli Helmuth   Ciales, PR
  5.9
Thanks, Jason, for watching my back. I believe you're right and if I hadn't pulled out more than a few bushes and scraped off a bushel of lichen I would have believed that it had been climbed previously, thus the "lost crack"... Jun 7, 2006

More About Left Out (aka Lost Crack)

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