Type: Trad, 600 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: Dan Hare & Randy McGregor, 1972
Page Views: 43,921 total · 184/month
Shared By: Charles Vernon on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


363 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: Season raptor closures Details

Description

To approach the Left Book, you take the Book trail, but actually then leave it to the left on the trail to the Bookmark. Hike around west of the Bookmark, and then, follow the "trail" (i.e. bushwhack) up past the chimneyish recess separating the Bookmark from the Book, to the base of the slabby cliff, which will be on the right. Unfortunately it is somewhat difficult to distinguish between routes here.

P1. The first pitch of White Whale is a crack that leads up to a tree about 10 feet above a rectangular roof. The correct crack intersects the very left edge of the roof band and is very easy at the start; similar cracks lie to the left of this one.

P2. The cracks on pitch two lie flush on the slab and angle up and somewhat left from the belay; fantastic 5.7. Belay on the left side of a large concave roof/bulge/alcove after a full ropelength.

P3. The third pitch goes up a crack around the left edge of this feature, and then wanders up a steeper wall to the walk-off ledge and a tree belay (a little run-out; be sure to avoid a black water groove on the right which is 5.8 and totally unprotected). One can avoid the final wall by traversing left to the walk-off ledge after the initial crack on P3.

P4. Addendum: Wide, right-angling crack above walkoff ledge.

Protection

Bring a standard rack, emphasizing finger-sized gear. Like many Lumpy climbs, it is flared but gobbles up stoppers.

Kid Friendliness

It has enough features and short-enough traverses to allow a shorter (7-8 year old) to ascend without excessive difficulty.

Photos