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Routes in Left Book

Beelzebub T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
Cottontail T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dog, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hiatus T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Left Out (aka Lost Crack) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Manifest Destiny T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Well Hung T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Whale Rider T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
White Whale T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Zingando T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 4 pitches
FA: B. Bradley & P. Mayrose, ~1965.
Page Views: 1,787 total · 9/month
Shared By: Andrew Gram on Jun 17, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Season raptor closures Details

Description

This route is on the Left Book. It climbs the nice slab to the right of White Whale to a beautiful dihedral.

Pitch 1 - run it out 50 feet or so up a very clean 5.6 slab to the base of the dihedral.

Pitch 2 - Lieback one of the nicest 5.6 dihedrals anywhere, finger and hand sized gear. Belay at the roof.

Pitch 3 - The route is vague here. Either go right on unprotected 5.7 rock or go left on unprotected 5.8ish rock. Don't fall.

Pitch 4 - addendum: Ascend the left side of a bulbous formation with a 5.9 dihedral.

Protection

Standard rack to #3 Camalot. 1st and 3rd pitches are very runout.

Photos

Doug Hemken
Madison, WI
 
Doug Hemken   Madison, WI  
 
Go up the right gully and traverse in to the bottom of the dihedral and this is PG.

We did it in two pitches with a 60m rope. Belay in the dihedral on small wires where there is a small scoop for your butt on climber's right and a small rail for your feet on the left. Jun 16, 2011
James Beissel
Boulder, CO
  5.7
James Beissel   Boulder, CO
  5.7
First pitch is safe with double rope technique. Climb up the gully, place some pro and clip your right rope, climb down, get on the slab and gain the crack. Lead the rest of the pitch on your left rope.

If you want to make it spicy you can, but don't let that stop you from getting on this excellent route! (Oops, did I just let the cat out of the bag?)

The crack/didedral is excellent!!!

Above the dihedral I don't know where this route is supposed to go to be R rated, but if you just keep going straight up the wide crack it is 5.7 or less and protectable all the way to the top.

Use tools, climb safe, have fun. Jul 18, 2009
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
 
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
 
A few thoughts: This is a stiff, sustained climb at the 5.7 level, I wouldn't want to be a 5.7 leader on this. The very-stiff & minimally featured start can be protected by placing gear up the gully to the R before cluck-pointing (I did). The dihedral is amazing, takes small pro, & is longer than it looks. P2 is not going to feel reasonable to a 5.6 leader. Don't go 200ft on P1 unless you don't mind a marginal stance for a belay (red & yellow Alien + 5 & 6 Rocks). P2 is more comfortably belayed after a short traverse at the roof/overlap to a notch to the R. P3 is not as run out as described unless you don't hunt & peck. Clucking above the roof, I found placements for at least #2 Camalot, #1 Camalot, large wire (in R pointing flake), yellow Alien, red Alien, orange Alien, #1.5 Camalot before the juggy finish. Maybe I didn't take the 'correct line' but it was fairly direct & 5.7. Interestingly, S. Kimball didn't give it an S in his guide but described an 'unprotected crystalline slab'. I would only give it an S for P1 if you don't cluck-point it & PG-13 for P3. 2.3 stars. Oct 22, 2004
Mike McKinnon
Golden, CO
Mike McKinnon   Golden, CO
Did this route on Saturday. The 2nd pitch dihedral is one of the best .6 you will ever do. It gets run-out just as it starts to bulge outward and the crack fills with grass. This route could probably be done in two long pitches. This is a great route on the left book when all the other routes are taken. This one sees less traffic b/c of its run-out nature but I think it is the best route on the Left Book. Jul 6, 2004

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