Type: Trad, 600 ft (182 m), 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: unknown
Page Views: 23,090 total · 86/month
Shared By: Charles Vernon on Dec 31, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Description Suggest change

A superb, moderate route, as good as White Whale. Like that route it is actually on the Left Book, which, although it is part of the Book, requires you to follow the turnoff for the Bookmark (situated in front of the Book) and scramble around west of that rock to the base of the slabby Left Book, which could perhaps even more accurately be termed the "west Book". Confused? If not, you might yet have trouble finding the exact line of the route. The belays are all shared with White Whale, hence the first pitch heads up to a small tree.

P1-Start right of the continuous crack of White Whale, directly below a roof band. climb up a thin dead end crack, make some moves up and left across the slab (sparse pro), go around the left end of the roof, and belay at the tree.

P2-go right from the tree to an obvious pillar with a wide crack that tapers to nothing. When that ends, head up and left to make a belay (full rope-length).

P3-climb a short crack, then traverse off left, or head straight up nebulous 5.7 terrain to the walk-off ledge (avoiding at all costs a water-worn groove which appears easier than it is).

P4-addendum: Move right, and continue up 5.9 to a topless tree to a small, triangular roof.

Protection Suggest change

Standard rack; the second pitch has an easy wide crack for which one bigger piece such as a #4 Friend might be nice. Make sure you have at least a normal allowance of small gear.