Type: Trad, 185 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Mike Lewis & Sara Rider
Page Views: 457 total · 11/month
Shared By: Mike A. Lewis on Oct 2, 2015
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


2 Opinions

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Access Issue: Season raptor closures Details

Description

This is one of the topout options that goes to the summit above Paperback Ledge. I think it is well worth the effort and adds another 1-2 pitches to the routes leading up to ledge. I have used this as an extension to White Whale multiple times with my guiding clients, and they have enjoyed it.

My guess is that someone else has done this route at some point in Lumpy's history.

Pitches: it can be done in one pitch. Breaking it up into two pitches reduces drag and offers the opportunity to take advantage of a great, exposed belay ledge with plentiful gear options, and it breaks the pitch into its natural two sections.

Location

From the top of White Whale, look straight up and there is a 15' overhanging OW slot that leads into some black streaks, that leads left into a left-facing dihedral. The dihedral trends left and up toward a roof with a large block.

Don't be scared of the "OW" in my description. There are really nice, incut jugs to pull over the small overhang with.

The crux is about 30' up, there is a left-leaning, hand-jam/layback move that takes you over toward the dihedral.

You can end the first pitch at the top of the dihedral before breaking into the lower angled climbing above the blocked overhang. For the 2nd half - choose your own adventure up the lichened slab.

Descent: walk off to the north into the gully, curve SW with the gully, and meet back up with the trail that comes off Paperback Ledge.

Protection

Standard rack.

Photos

Cobra Wrestlr
Mary land
Cobra Wrestlr   Mary land
I've done this route twice in July now, and it is fun, pro is good.
Awesome moves getting off the ground and 20 feet up as well as off the ledge at 3/4 of the way up, fun way to continue up the wall a must do and way better views. Walkoff to climber's left is mostly easy.
Done in one pitch with 60m and many slings. Belay at the top is tricky. You can go to the left side, ditch the last 8 feet of climbing, and use a big tree.
Not hard 8-. Jul 24, 2017
plantmandan
Brighton, CO
  5.8
plantmandan   Brighton, CO
  5.8
This route is a nice finish to White Whale, well worth doing. The moves are good from start to finish, and the 5.5 section in the middle is a really fun crack with some good jams. The crux moves are slightly harder than the crux of WW, but they are a couple of one-move wonders. Did the route in one long pitch. I give the pitch two stars with a bonus star for the amazing view from the top. Sep 29, 2018