Avg: 2.6 from 10 votes
|Type:||Trad, 185 ft (56 m), 2 pitches|
|FA:||Mike Lewis & Sara Rider|
|Page Views:||1,128 total · 15/month|
|Shared By:||Mike Lewis on Oct 2, 2015|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
Closures ending July 31:
Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Lightning Rock, Checkerboard Rock - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Sundance - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
The Book Area: Left Book, The Bookmark, Bookmark Pinnacle, and the entire Book formation (including Renaissance Wall, Isis Buttress, Pages Wall Area, and J-Crack Slab Area)-nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Thunder Buttress and The Parish - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Twin Owls and Rock One - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Cathedral Wall - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
When closed, the closures include the named rock formations and the areas surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes, and climber's access trails to the formation.
Areas not listed are presumed to be open. These closures will be lifted or extended as conditions dictate.
My guess is that someone else has done this route at some point in Lumpy's history.
Pitches: it can be done in one pitch. Breaking it up into two pitches reduces drag and offers the opportunity to take advantage of a great, exposed belay ledge with plentiful gear options, and it breaks the pitch into its natural two sections.
Don't be scared of the "OW" in my description. There are really nice, incut jugs to pull over the small overhang with.
The crux is about 30' up, there is a left-leaning, hand-jam/layback move that takes you over toward the dihedral.
You can end the first pitch at the top of the dihedral before breaking into the lower angled climbing above the blocked overhang. For the 2nd half - choose your own adventure up the lichened slab.
Descent: walk off to the north into the gully, curve SW with the gully, and meet back up with the trail that comes off Paperback Ledge.