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Routes in Left Book

Beelzebub T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
Cottontail T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dog, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hiatus T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Left Out (aka Lost Crack) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Manifest Destiny T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Well Hung T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Whale Rider T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
White Whale T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Zingando T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 185 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Mike Lewis & Sara Rider
Page Views: 335 total, 13/month
Shared By: Mike A. Lewis on Oct 2, 2015
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Season raptor closures Details

Description

This is one of the topout options that goes to the summit above Paperback Ledge. I think it is well worth the effort and adds another 1-2 pitches to the routes leading up to ledge. I have used this as an extension to White Whale multiple times with my guiding clients, and they have enjoyed it.

My guess is that someone else has done this route at some point in Lumpy's history.

Pitches: it can be done in one pitch. Breaking it up into two pitches reduces drag and offers the opportunity to take advantage of a great, exposed belay ledge with plentiful gear options, and it breaks the pitch into its natural two sections.

Location

From the top of White Whale, look straight up and there is a 15' overhanging OW slot that leads into some black streaks, that leads left into a left-facing dihedral. The dihedral trends left and up toward a roof with a large block.

Don't be scared of the "OW" in my description. There are really nice, incut jugs to pull over the small overhang with.

The crux is about 30' up, there is a left-leaning, hand-jam/layback move that takes you over toward the dihedral.

You can end the first pitch at the top of the dihedral before breaking into the lower angled climbing above the blocked overhang. For the 2nd half - choose your own adventure up the lichened slab.

Descent: walk off to the north into the gully, curve SW with the gully, and meet back up with the trail that comes off Paperback Ledge.

Protection

Standard rack.

Photos

S2k4 Life
beaver creek, CO
S2k4 Life   beaver creek, CO
I've done this route twice in July now, and it is fun, pro is good.
Awesome moves getting off the ground and 20 feet up as well as off the ledge at 3/4 of the way up, fun way to continue up the wall a must do and way better views. Walkoff to climber's left is mostly easy.
Done in one pitch with 60m and many slings. Belay at the top is tricky. You can go to the left side, ditch the last 8 feet of climbing, and use a big tree.
Not hard 8-. Jul 24, 2017