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Left Book Rock Climbing
Routes in Left Book
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Beelzebub T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X |
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Cottontail T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Dog, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Hiatus T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Left Out (aka Lost Crack) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Manifest Destiny T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Well Hung T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Whale Rider T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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White Whale T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Zingando T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
| Elevation: | 8,607 ft | 2,623 m |
| GPS: |
40.40708, -105.5356 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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| Page Views: | 63,331 total · 276/month | |
| Shared By: | Leo Paik on Jun 14, 2006 | |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: 2024 Partial Seasonal Raptor Closures lifted 7/21/24
Details
From the Denver Post 7/21/24: some of the raptor closures have been lifted, officials announced.
Upper & Lower Twin Owls, Rock One, The Book and access trail, Bookmark, and Left Book were opened based on a park new release.
Closures have been extended for Thunder Buttress, access trail, The Parish, Cathedral Wall.
Closures above the Loch Vale-Sky Pond trail have been extended.
Per Brent Frazier: the raptor closures have been lifted in the Lumpy Ridge and Loch Vale Areas ( nps.gov/romo/raptor-closure…)
Each year, Rocky Mountain National Park initiates temporary closures in certain areas of the park to ensure that birds of prey will be undisturbed during their breeding and nesting seasons. These closures begin on February 15 and continue through July 31, if appropriate. Monitoring by park staff and volunteers have determined that all remaining closures can be lifted on July 28, 2023.
Per Matt Coghill: the Golden eagle nesting activity has extended Lumpy closures through Aug. 15, 2022 on Sundance, Thunder Buttress, and Needle Summit!
Per A.Eaton: the raptor closures have been lifted as of 6/4/2022 at Lumpy for the following formations:
Twin Owls
Rock One
Batman Rock
Batman Pinnacle
Checkerboard
Lightning Rock
Per the Denver Post: as of Feb. 15, 2022, Checkerboard Rock, Lightning Rock, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sundance, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Bookmark Pinnacle, The Left Book, Bookmark, Twin Owls, Rock One, and the Needle are closed for raptor nesting. These closures will continue through July 31, 2022 if needed.
All areas [were] OPEN to climbing for the 2021 post July season.
Closures ending July 31:
Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Lightning Rock, Checkerboard Rock - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Sundance - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
The Book Area: Left Book, The Bookmark, Bookmark Pinnacle, and the entire Book formation (including Renaissance Wall, Isis Buttress, Pages Wall Area, and J-Crack Slab Area)- nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Thunder Buttress and The Parish - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Twin Owls and Rock One - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Cathedral Wall - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
When closed, the closures include the named rock formations and the areas surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes, and climber's access trails to the formation.
Areas not listed are presumed to be open. These closures will be lifted or extended as conditions dictate.
Upper & Lower Twin Owls, Rock One, The Book and access trail, Bookmark, and Left Book were opened based on a park new release.
Closures have been extended for Thunder Buttress, access trail, The Parish, Cathedral Wall.
Closures above the Loch Vale-Sky Pond trail have been extended.
Per Brent Frazier: the raptor closures have been lifted in the Lumpy Ridge and Loch Vale Areas ( nps.gov/romo/raptor-closure…)
Each year, Rocky Mountain National Park initiates temporary closures in certain areas of the park to ensure that birds of prey will be undisturbed during their breeding and nesting seasons. These closures begin on February 15 and continue through July 31, if appropriate. Monitoring by park staff and volunteers have determined that all remaining closures can be lifted on July 28, 2023.
Per Matt Coghill: the Golden eagle nesting activity has extended Lumpy closures through Aug. 15, 2022 on Sundance, Thunder Buttress, and Needle Summit!
Per A.Eaton: the raptor closures have been lifted as of 6/4/2022 at Lumpy for the following formations:
Twin Owls
Rock One
Batman Rock
Batman Pinnacle
Checkerboard
Lightning Rock
Per the Denver Post: as of Feb. 15, 2022, Checkerboard Rock, Lightning Rock, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sundance, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Bookmark Pinnacle, The Left Book, Bookmark, Twin Owls, Rock One, and the Needle are closed for raptor nesting. These closures will continue through July 31, 2022 if needed.
All areas [were] OPEN to climbing for the 2021 post July season.
Closures ending July 31:
Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Lightning Rock, Checkerboard Rock - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Sundance - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
The Book Area: Left Book, The Bookmark, Bookmark Pinnacle, and the entire Book formation (including Renaissance Wall, Isis Buttress, Pages Wall Area, and J-Crack Slab Area)- nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Thunder Buttress and The Parish - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Twin Owls and Rock One - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Cathedral Wall - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
When closed, the closures include the named rock formations and the areas surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes, and climber's access trails to the formation.
Areas not listed are presumed to be open. These closures will be lifted or extended as conditions dictate.
Description
This is a section of The Book which is distinct from other areas of the Book (like Right Book, Pages, Isis Buttress, Left Buttress, and Book of the Dead) in terms of approach, character, steepness, and difficulty of routes. Since The Book section has 70+ routes, this organizational division hopefully will help the climber who is not terribly familiar with Lumpy Ridge.
This crag is fairly low-angle and is thus friendly to those seeking lesser difficulty climbs. At the same time, some of its features are quite indistinct, thus, you can get lost on this small slab. Nonetheless, its appearance is striking from the vantage points like the Bookend and the upper reaches of the Bookmark. It does have a major ledge system (used for descents) called Paperback Ledge which splits the face. There are climbs above this walkoff ledge which receive distinctly less attention than the lower routes.
Note, this area can be particularly popular on weekends.
This crag is fairly low-angle and is thus friendly to those seeking lesser difficulty climbs. At the same time, some of its features are quite indistinct, thus, you can get lost on this small slab. Nonetheless, its appearance is striking from the vantage points like the Bookend and the upper reaches of the Bookmark. It does have a major ledge system (used for descents) called Paperback Ledge which splits the face. There are climbs above this walkoff ledge which receive distinctly less attention than the lower routes.
Note, this area can be particularly popular on weekends.
Getting There
Hike the Black Canyon Trail from the new parking lot heading west to the old Twin Owls parking lot just past the livestock gate. Take the trail toward the Book Massif. Take the 1st left split towards Bookmark, Left Book, and Bookend. At the 2nd split, take the right split, and head around the Bookmark. Hike around WEST of the Bookmark, and then, follow the "trail" (i.e. bushwhack) up a steep, wide gully to the base of the slabby cliff, which will be on the right. It is somewhat difficult to distinguish between routes here. Per Owen Cox: this is about 1.87 miles or 3 km.
Classic Climbing Routes at Left Book
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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