Elevation: 8,607 ft
GPS: 40.40708, -105.5356
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 62,334 total · 302/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Jun 14, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC
Access Issue: 2022 Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Access Issue: Closure Notice Details

Description

This is a section of The Book which is distinct from other areas of the Book (like Right Book, Pages, Isis Buttress, Left Buttress, and Book of the Dead) in terms of approach, character, steepness, and difficulty of routes. Since The Book section has 70+ routes, this organizational division hopefully will help the climber who is not terribly familiar with Lumpy Ridge.

This crag is fairly low-angle and is thus friendly to those seeking lesser difficulty climbs. At the same time, some of its features are quite indistinct, thus, you can get lost on this small slab. Nonetheless, its appearance is striking from the vantage points like the Bookend and the upper reaches of the Bookmark. It does have a major ledge system (used for descents) called Paperback Ledge which splits the face. There are climbs above this walkoff ledge which receive distinctly less attention than the lower routes.

Note, this area can be particularly popular on weekends.

Getting There

Hike the Black Canyon Trail from the new parking lot heading west to the old Twin Owls parking lot just past the livestock gate. Take the trail toward the Book Massif. Take the 1st left split towards Bookmark, Left Book, and Bookend. At the 2nd split, take the right split, and head around the Bookmark. Hike around WEST of the Bookmark, and then, follow the "trail" (i.e. bushwhack) up a steep, wide gully to the base of the slabby cliff, which will be on the right. It is somewhat difficult to distinguish between routes here. Per Owen Cox: this is about 1.87 miles or 3 km.

10 Total Climbs

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Location: Left Book Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Left Book

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 51
Zingando
Trad 2 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 415
White Whale
Trad 4 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 58
Manifest Destiny
Trad 4 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
 13
Beelzebub
Trad 4 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 50
Cottontail
Trad 2 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 56
The Dog
Trad 3 pitches
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 148
Hiatus
Trad 3 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 14
Whale Rider
Trad 2 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Zingando
 51
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad 2 pitches
White Whale
 415
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 4 pitches
Manifest Destiny
 58
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 4 pitches
Beelzebub
 13
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X Trad 4 pitches
Cottontail
 50
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 2 pitches
The Dog
 56
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 3 pitches
Hiatus
 148
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 3 pitches
Whale Rider
 14
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Left Book »

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