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Routes in Left Book

Beelzebub T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
Cottontail T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dog, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hiatus T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Left Out (aka Lost Crack) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Manifest Destiny T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Well Hung T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Whale Rider T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
White Whale T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Zingando T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Unsorted Routes:
Access Issue: Season raptor closures Details

Description

This is a section of The Book which is distinct from other areas of the Book (like Right Book, Pages, Isis Buttress, Left Buttress, and Book of the Dead) in terms of approach, character, steepness, and difficulty of routes. Since The Book section has 70+ routes, this organizational division hopefully will help the climber who is not terribly familiar with Lumpy Ridge.

This crag is fairly low-angle and is thus friendly to those seeking lesser difficulty climbs. At the same time, some of its features are quite indistinct, thus, you can get lost on this small slab. Nonetheless, its appearance is striking from the vantage points like the Bookend and the upper reaches of the Bookmark. It does have a major ledge system (used for descents) called Paperback Ledge which splits the face. There are climbs above this walkoff ledge which receive distinctly less attention than the lower routes.

Note, this area can be particularly popular on weekends.

Getting There

Hike the Black Canyon Trail from the new parking lot heading west to the old Twin Owls parking lot just past the livestock gate. Take the trail toward the Book Massif. Take the 1st left split towards Bookmark, Left Book, and Bookend. At the 2nd split, take the right split and head around the Bookmark. Hike around WEST of the Bookmark, and then, follow the "trail" (i.e. bushwhack) up a steep wide gully, to the base of the slabby cliff, which will be on the right. It is somewhat difficult to distinguish between routes here.

10 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Left Book

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 35
Zingando
Trad 2 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 292
White Whale
Trad 4 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 43
Manifest Destiny
Trad 4 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
 12
Beelzebub
Trad 4 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 39
Cottontail
Trad 2 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 48
The Dog
Trad 3 pitches
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 134
Hiatus
Trad 3 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Zingando
 35
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad 2 pitches
White Whale
 292
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 4 pitches
Manifest Destiny
 43
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 4 pitches
Beelzebub
 12
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X Trad 4 pitches
Cottontail
 39
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 2 pitches
The Dog
 48
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 3 pitches
Hiatus
 134
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 3 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Left Book »

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Photos

If only this wall was dead vertical! Climbed several of these lines today and found clean rock, tons of features, great friction, and a few surprisingly splitter cracks. Atypically friendly, secure climbing as far as Lumpy Ridge routes go. Can be crowded on weekends, but hitting up a few lines at this crag is definitely a must for any Lumpy climber. Don't let the "R" on Beelzebub scare you away from that line, it's probably the best at the crag. May 22, 2010

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