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Routes in Crescent Wall

Cleft Palate T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Crescent Arch T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Finger Lickin' Good T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Flight for Life S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Friction Addiction T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Heaven Can Wait T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lycra Bikers From Hell T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Milk Run T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
Pressure Drop T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Root Canal T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad
FA: Dan Hare and Pete Steers 1974
Page Views: 4,314 total, 23/month
Shared By: J. Thompson on Sep 23, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Season raptor closures Details

Description

Pressure Drop is located in the center of the Crescent Wall. The initial 40 feet or so are shared with the route Kool Aid. Start on a block/flake leaning against the wall, then climb the splitter finger crack and pass a crux at 5.10d. When you reach the fixed pin climb the crack/seam the angles up and right. You will pass another crux at 5.10d and at least 1 more maybe in the 5.10a range. Be warned that the gear gets THIN! In a couple of spots it looks like you won't be getting anymore gear, keep climbing there is gear! You will want to be good with RPs. There is no move harder than 5.10d, but the route is given 5.11a due to its sustained nature. The seam ends at a large flake/small ledge that is pasted to the wall, either walk on top of it or drop down and hand traverse to the anchor on the right side (bolts). Rappel off these bolts to descend. You will rap down the route Finger Lick'n Good. Enjoy!

Protection

You will need a set to set and a half of nuts.1 set of RPs- include the little ones. Cams to a .75 Camalot- and you probably won't use anything bigger than an orange TCU. There is one fixed pin (LA).
WadeM
Golden, Co
 
WadeM   Golden, Co
 
Awesome route! This area really needs more traffic. It can be quite intimidating standing beneath this route, with the 12s and 13s around it.

Everywhere where the gear is crap, you get good holds, and where the gear is good, it becomes quite hard.

The first 30 ft require crack technique. You get bomber, offset alloys. Fire through the crux, as there's no room for gear anyways, to get to a good stance. Then start the shenanigans of the RP traverse. The rest climbs like delicate slab. Some placements are very tricky and flared, while there are quite a few slots that eat the RP. Biggest you'll find gear for is a 0.75.

There are a couple good pod rests along the traverse. Jun 6, 2014
Paul Hunnicutt
Boulder, CO
Paul Hunnicutt   Boulder, CO
The bottom section has some CLASSIC super awkward, strange, flared Lumpy jams, but sews up well. The RP traverse is NOT for the timid, hence we bailed. Jun 13, 2009
Ivan Rezucha
Fort Collins, CO
Ivan Rezucha   Fort Collins, CO
I followed Greg up this last Tuesday. Greg was solid, but was struggling a bit getting in the last nut before the final hard move. The crack crux was much harder than the traverse for me--I couldn't do it, and left a lot of skin behind. I hung on the traverse before the last move to rest and avoid a potential swinging fall. The gear on the traverse is good, except the final nut which is small and single and placed from a difficult stance. Just before that Greg had 3 good but small nuts. They were all in a horizontal and over an edge, but something would have held.

I'm wondering what kind of gear was used on the FA? No pins? It looks like pins would have worked. Did you (whoever) have brass nuts back then or only the flimsier #1 and #2 stoppers? Dec 2, 2007
ElMidd  
Pete Steres and Scott Woodruff did the first ascent -- well-before Bruce M's 1977 ascent. Jun 23, 2007
Rob Kepley
Westminster,CO
  5.11a
Rob Kepley   Westminster,CO
  5.11a
Great climbing with awesome views. I had previously been on this route back in JULY of 2001! I almost melted that day from the heat. Today was also very hot up there. I would recommend doing this route on a sunny day in Feb. Very continuous at the grade with tricky gear stances. Good footwork a must! Apr 28, 2007
J. Thompson
denver, co
 
J. Thompson   denver, co
 
Bruce...an interesting post! When I added this route I had just climbed the route, and not knowing the history myself had referenced a guidebook for the reported FA. My apologies!! Nov 6, 2006
nolteboy
Fort Collins, CO
 
nolteboy   Fort Collins, CO
 
Brilliant. I and my partner both shed a little blood somewhere above the small roof (at ~30 feet?)... probably due to our famously sloppy technique, but we both wished we'd taped. Nov 28, 2005
Bruce Morris
Belmont, CA
  5.11a
Bruce Morris   Belmont, CA
  5.11a
In any case, Eric W. and I probably did the first ascent of both pitches as one. I think what people didn't like was that it was described in Climbing magazine as the "hardest crack climb in Colorado"! Certainly not the case, even in 1977! Nice route though. I remember now that Eric Doub tried it in 1975, too. Oct 26, 2004
Bruce Morris
Belmont, CA
  5.11a
Bruce Morris   Belmont, CA
  5.11a
I always thought that Dan Hare et al had done the FA of "Finger Lickin'", but that it was myself and the late Eric Weinstein who did the first FA of "Pressure Drop" on Crescent Wall. In any case, it certainly was Eric who named it after the Jimmy Cliff tune (one of his favorites). Likewise, I know it was Eric who placed the pin (the one that fell out) since I was belaying him at the time (Jan./Feb. 1977). Victor Creazzi from the Gunks had tried the route back in 1973-74 and there were some other earlier attempts, too. Eric and I were the ones who aided up the first crux and cleaned all the dirt out of the crack, so I suspect there wasn't an earlier FA than ours. Oct 7, 2004
A brilliant pitch off the beaten track. The upper traversy section requires deft footwork and confidence in leaving suspect gear a bit behind. Jun 25, 2003
Brian Milhaupt
Golden, CO
  5.11a
Brian Milhaupt   Golden, CO
  5.11a
The fixed pin is no longer there. It is possible to lower from the anchor and belay from the ground with a 60m cord. None of the moves were too hard, but setting and moving above the RPs is a little heady. Jun 15, 2003