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Routes in Crescent Wall

Cleft Palate T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Crescent Arch T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Finger Lickin' Good T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Flight for Life S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Friction Addiction T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Heaven Can Wait T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lycra Bikers From Hell T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Milk Run T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
Pressure Drop T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Root Canal T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 3 pitches
FA: Scott Woodruff, Brad Gilbert, and Dan Hare, 1974
Page Views: 80 total, 1/month
Shared By: tbol on Apr 8, 2012
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Season raptor closures Details

Description

Gillett's book describes this route as audacious. Climbing it proved to be quite serious and rewarding. Challenging climbing, runouts, and loads of dung add up to two stellar, type 2 fun, pitches. Plus one more relatively easy pitch to finish.

P1 - There are a few ways to do this pitch. Aim for the arching crack before the large and obvious, right-trending chimney/roof feature. This thin crack is a spicy traverse right to gain the namesake feature of the route. This is very poorly protected 5.7 to 5.8 climbing on knobs to the thin 5.10 traverse. Belay after the arching crack where there is a good stance and the chimney opens up.

P2- Grovel your way across the flaring chimney and try not to breath too hard. You might catch the La Junta virus from all the different poop deposited by several varieties of aerial creatures. With a good bath, this thing would be a Front Range classic. This pitch has good gear but is a burlfest. Belay at a stance where the difficulties end.

P3 - Find your way to the top on relatively easier ground.

Location

This is right of Root Canal.

Protection

Small gear for pitch one (RPs, Wired Bliss TCUs, Aliens). Small cams up to a #3 Camalot protects the sidewidthing on pitch two well.

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