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Routes in Crescent Wall

Cleft Palate T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Crescent Arch T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Finger Lickin' Good T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Flight for Life S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Friction Addiction T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Heaven Can Wait T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lycra Bikers From Hell T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Milk Run T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
Pressure Drop T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Root Canal T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 300 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Caldwell, Solem, Lazar, and Quigley: 1986
Page Views: 76 total, 1/month
Shared By: Eran Shileikis on May 17, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Season raptor closures Details

Description

P1: Begin near the very large tree at the left side of the base of Crescent Wall just right of a large stack of blocks. Climb the first 100 ft. of "Cleft Palate" (7) via some broken ramps and a few slab moves up and left up to the base of the right-facing dihedral on the far left side of the wall that is below the "Cleft Palate" roof traverse (10b/c R, 11a). Climb half way up the dihedral, then make a move out left (9?) and belay.

P2: Unsure of where the bolts are located?

Protection

Offsets and smaller cams won't hurt, but the standard rack will see you through.

Photos

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Just an FYI - Gillett's guide gives this a 9+ R - that might explain the sand-baggy feel and apparent lack of bolts. Jun 18, 2009
Eran Shileikis
Dysfunctional, CO
 
Eran Shileikis   Dysfunctional, CO
 
This is the first route at Lumpy Ridge where Rossiter's 1996 description and topo did not seem to make sense. He gave this route a "star", but I give it the "finger".

We climbed P1 but could not locate the 2 bolts that were suppose to be there for P2. We saw a bolt 20 ft. to our left for "Milk Run (7 vs)", and a bolt 25 ft. up and to our right, which we assume is for "Hair Lip" (11c).

Maybe we were just blind, but I was not stoked to get up there expecting 5.9 bolt moves only to have these 3 options: Bail, gun a 10b/c R move that continues to 11a on " Cleft Palate", or go to a bolt that is likely on the P2 crux of "Hairlip (11c)".

We opted for a 5.7 R traverse (~20 ft. swing w/ dihedral slam) down and left to the P1 belay for "Milk Run" at a dead tree (We slung a block and rapped).

Lastly, I found the rock to be a little dirty. Several holds had a flaky surface that was not inspiring. They were easily cleaned, but this route probably doesn't see much traffic. In other words, not recommended for 5.9 climbers at this juncture IMHO.

Maybe that bolt I saw 25 ft. up and right of the belay is for P2, but my partner and I didn't want to run it out only to discover we were wrong. The guidebook did not call for an "R" rating, so I'm stumped. May 18, 2009